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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Pool, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youthful Exuberance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Warren Harding, TM Herbert & Galen Rowell, 1969 FFA: Jim Orey et al., 1973
Page Views: 10,213 total · 71/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Its name gives good indication of what to expect.

The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.

The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.

The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.

Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.

The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.

Really wide and kinda scary.

Location

Eeyore's Enigma is the large offwidth chimney to the left and around the corner from Traveler's Buttress and to the right of Eeyore's Ecstasy.

Protection

Cams .5"-4" double 1"-3" and 3 #4s are useful.
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A #5 BD cam is nice for the chimney belay after the second pitch.

Pitch two is the business! I haven't worked that hard for 5.10a in a while. When you get squeeze chimney/o-dub action going on it gets thug nasty fast.

The crux noted in the description went pretty well with some wide hands, some fists, and careful stemming and chimneying with the crux coming around the first corner to the offwidth that leads up to the squeeze roof. I walked/leap frogged two #4 camalots without much difficulty. I was too much a weenie to hang it all out on one cam I would be occasionally pulling out.

The second crux where you are hanging out of the squeeze chimney maw of a roof like a dingleberry was another matter. Those wider of shoulder and chest will find this pitch quite challenging. You want to tunnel up and through, but you won't be able to. The prospect of pumping out of the squeeze loomed, but, fortunately, did not happen to me. Good thing since I had a tail of my rack, helmet, and shoes hanging off the tag loop!

This climb is 5.10a like Traveler's Buttress is 5.9. Aug 20, 2016
Kyle Marks 1
Sacramento, CA
 
Kyle Marks 1   Sacramento, CA
 
Amazing route! This was my first lead in a squeeze chimney (traverse) and I got pretty scraped up. Wearing shorts was a bad decision. Jun 15, 2015
AndyBG  
Wow, this is an amazing adventure! The squeeze - burrow deep or move to the left? At 6'2" I had to resort to the latter, after struggling to exhaustion and failing many times at the former. Wow. May 16, 2013