Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Warren Harding, TM Herbert & Galen Rowell, 1969 FFA: Jim Orey et al., 1973
Page Views: 10,960 total · 71/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Its name gives good indication of what to expect.

The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.

The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.

The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.

Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.

The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.

Really wide and kinda scary.

Location

Eeyore's Enigma is the large offwidth chimney to the left and around the corner from Traveler's Buttress and to the right of Eeyore's Ecstasy.

Protection

Cams .5"-4" double 1"-3" and 3 #4s are useful.
AndyBG  
Wow, this is an amazing adventure! The squeeze - burrow deep or move to the left? At 6'2" I had to resort to the latter, after struggling to exhaustion and failing many times at the former. Wow. May 16, 2013
Kyle Marks 1
Sacramento, CA
 
Kyle Marks 1   Sacramento, CA
 
Amazing route! This was my first lead in a squeeze chimney (traverse) and I got pretty scraped up. Wearing shorts was a bad decision. Jun 15, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A #5 BD cam is nice for the chimney belay after the second pitch.

Pitch two is the business! I haven't worked that hard for 5.10a in a while. When you get squeeze chimney/o-dub action going on it gets thug nasty fast.

The crux noted in the description went pretty well with some wide hands, some fists, and careful stemming and chimneying with the crux coming around the first corner to the offwidth that leads up to the squeeze roof. I walked/leap frogged two #4 camalots without much difficulty. I was too much a weenie to hang it all out on one cam I would be occasionally pulling out.

The second crux where you are hanging out of the squeeze chimney maw of a roof like a dingleberry was another matter. Those wider of shoulder and chest will find this pitch quite challenging. You want to tunnel up and through, but you won't be able to. The prospect of pumping out of the squeeze loomed, but, fortunately, did not happen to me. Good thing since I had a tail of my rack, helmet, and shoes hanging off the tag loop!

This climb is 5.10a like Traveler's Buttress is 5.9. Aug 20, 2016
E Mann
front range CO
E Mann   front range CO
Get ready for some spray.... Did this in 3 pitches(recommend). Wouldn't do this without a #5 C4, walked it for the final 40 feetish of 5" OW/dike crimping to the belay alcove on the second pitch (#4 C4 would've been tipped). Used 0.5s and 0.4s for the belay, didn't see how large cams would be useful. (2 #4 C4's were also nice to bump along for the fun chimney roof crack traverse thing) May 29, 2018
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, CA
 
P2 beta:

Sustained chimneying to start, but you can comfortably slide a #4 along and basically toprope that section. A few hand-hand stacks made the cruxy sections not as bad. A #3 won't fit anywhere; don't bring any.

At the squeeze I didn't find the high #2 placement, instead just left the #4 as the last piece.

I'm 5'7" 150lbs I fit completely in the squeeze. I took absolutely everything off my harness and tagged it below me on a triple length sling.

After the squeeze (and an alcove to mentally recover and place gear) there's a 40' 5.8 wide section. You could bring a #5 for this, but probably don't need it if you made it this far. I managed to place an ok #1 Wallnut halfway up, but an offset brassie probably would have fit better.

Nothing big needed for the belay, just some ~1 inch stuff. Aug 15, 2018