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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> Main Wall
Batman's Nightmare
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Absolutely Billy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Batman's Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deadpool T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eeyore's Ecstacy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Travelin' Man T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yankee Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Dan Osman (1989) |
| Page Views: | 3,436 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Dec 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Climb up Blue Cab or the first pitch of the North Face, Stem Meister or Yankee Dog continueing past the bolts to the big white scoop above. On the left side of the scoop, climb a short steep (5.10) broken section to a ramp that leads to the start of Wall Flower. This is on the left side wall of the white scoop.
Start up the overhanging crack on the left side of this wall. Steep hands and fingers, a fist or two past a cruxy section and more fingers and hands up an unrelenting wall. Follow the left crack above until it finally ends at a long section of overhanging jugs. Climb up overhanging jugs (5.10 at least) for about 15 to 20 feet to the chains. The overhanging jugs are totally unprotected but the climbing is so steep and high up that if you fall, even from the anchors, the only thing you could possably hit is air. Note that taking the fall from just before the anchors could cause one to "Poo Poo" their panties!
Start up the overhanging crack on the left side of this wall. Steep hands and fingers, a fist or two past a cruxy section and more fingers and hands up an unrelenting wall. Follow the left crack above until it finally ends at a long section of overhanging jugs. Climb up overhanging jugs (5.10 at least) for about 15 to 20 feet to the chains. The overhanging jugs are totally unprotected but the climbing is so steep and high up that if you fall, even from the anchors, the only thing you could possably hit is air. Note that taking the fall from just before the anchors could cause one to "Poo Poo" their panties!
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