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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Pool, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youthful Exuberance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bruce Runmals, Al Swanson, 1989
Page Views: 4,461 total, 51/month
Shared By: John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Location

This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Absolutely Brilliant, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class (people say this is harder than 3rd class, which it is, but the point is, it's very easy) down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. See the Beta Picture herein for a description.

Description

This is an excellent bolted face climb. The bolts have all been replaced and no gear is required. It shares it's top anchors with Absolutely Brilliant. It is a bit difficult to get to but well worth the effort

Protection

bolts

Photos

Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Another way to access this climb is to climb through the .11a P2 corner pitch of North Face, which is awesome if you can manage it.

From the top of that pitch, you can do a short, slightly rightward rap from the aforementioned P2 anchor to the small ledge at the base of this climb. This avoids the need to do some sketchy 5th class moves (agree that this is definitely NOT 3rd class, and it definitely IS exposed) or short belayed pitch that would be the other way to access those climbs from the "dish" belay at the top of North Face P1. Jul 23, 2017
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
This is a great route to shake the "Trad Dad" dust off... The bolts get continually more spaced apart, but it is totally fair, as long as you keep your head about you. You are never pulling a crux move any further than a bolt at your feet, but there are some committing psychological moves that occur at the, "Don't blow it" space between your last clip, which arguably makes the experience much more classic.

Thought it was a standout route, an excellent example of dike pulling at The Leap. Apr 20, 2015