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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,564 total · 46/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1: Start up a 5.7 flake that is laden with large dikes. Climb up to the white bowl and belay here on three fixed pins.

P2: Continue up the prominent right-leaning crack that is a lot harder than it looks. The pro is good and abundant. Tight finger locks on a steep wall with no feet bring you through the crux. Belay at the small ledge just under the roof on two good bolt anchors.

P3: Continue straight up over a horrible-looking roof which is not as bad as it looks or go out right for a slightly harder variation with two closely spaced bolts for pro. Once over the roof, move out left up a series of cracks littered with fixed pins. Follow these cracks up the wildly exposed 5.9 face on large dikes and hand jams up to a large grass-filled ledge and belay there.

P4: Now continue up and left over some less-than-traveled rock; any number of ways (all about 5.6) to the top. Good stuff.

LOCATION: Starts just left of Stem Mister and Right of Power Lust. For add'l information see the Beta Picture herein

Protection

Cams .5"-4" Nuts 1 set

Photos

John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
The second pitch of this route and others (Absolutely Brilliant, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. Sep 27, 2010
Port
 
Port  
 
Only did the first two pitches. The second pitch was hard, the feet disappear halfway up and the finger locks are difficult. But the true difficulty is the pitch's sustained nature. There is a large block at the top of the pitch that is about to come loose. Be careful with it.

The third pitch looked hard, with lots of moss in the initial crack. We rapped from the top of 2. Jul 22, 2011
Michael Dom  
 
Did this today and thought that the second pitch was super cool and sustained 11a. The third pitch is not 5.9. The moves through the roof scared me but it was really fun. Expect to clip a couple of pins and a bong out left. Be careful though because these top two pitches are full of loose rock. The last pitch had a cool traverse but ultimately led to bushes. Sep 18, 2016
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Clarification on the belay spot in the "white dish" at the top of P1 - as of July 2017, there's just one nasty-looking fixed pin remaining that I could find. The Good news is that there's no need to use it, because there is a solid new-ish two-bolt anchor/rap station just up and left from the pin still well within reach of the comfortable flat belay spot. Note that if not topping out the full North Face route, this anchor/rap station won't get you down with a 70m rope.

However, the reason to bear through the dirty (though still fun) P1 of North Face in the first place is to access the awesome P2 11a lieback crack. From the top of this P2 crack, you can traverse a couple steps out right to another fixed anchor, and from there, one 70m rope will get you down and right to the fixed anchor for Stemmeister, where you can rap again to reach the ground. It did not appear to me that a 60m rope would work for the last rap.

Speaking of P2, totally awesome pitch. Again (as per my comments on Tombstone Terror), it reminded me of a harder version of the 3rd pitch of Oz in Tuolumne, but every bit as good. It's steeper than Oz for longer, but with some really bomber finger locks and hand jams to rest on before a couple cruxes. Gear is also excellent on this pitch just about the whole way. .4-1 are the pieces you'll really want for the pumpier placements, so rack your right-side gear loops accordingly.

As a bonus, if you want to do Absolutely Brilliant and/or Dragon Back after P2 of this climb, you can do a short, slightly rightward rap from the aforementioned P2 anchor to the small ledge at the base of those climbs. This avoids the need to do some sketchy 5th class moves or short belayed pitch that would be the other way to access those climbs from the "dish" belay. Jul 23, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Thursday, August 10th, I took the ride with the block at the top of pitch 2.

The traverse is now dirty where the block was and of unknown difficulty. Aug 12, 2017
Wo Eric, I take it you are ok? Aug 13, 2017
Erik Griffith
Yosemite National Park, CA
Erik Griffith   Yosemite National Park, CA
Just climbed the second pitch yesterday. The block being gone actually makes the last section, easier, more fun and way safer. So thanks for taking the ride for the rest of us. It has, however, created a sharp edge where your rope can run if you clip the pin and don't extend before the anchor.

Anyways, the route is just as classic and sustained and much safer with the block gone. Get after it! Jun 25, 2018

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