Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Petch
Page Views: 2,956 total · 20/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This new (2006) face route on Main Wall is excellent! Climb up to a bolt, up left into a flake which can be protected with #1 or #.75 Camalots, past another bolt to another flake which takes good cams as well. Then, another 5 or so bolts to the anchor. Rap off with a 60m rope. Lowering will kill your rope on this one.

Location

50' left of Arctic Breeze on main ledge. Probably about 50' right of Stem Meister.

Protection

Bolts, an assortment of cams. (I used yellow Alien, #1 and #2 Camalots...)

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10a
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10a
Did this one again today. Fantastic route, slightly overhanging in some sections, with biggish positive dikes.

This one will be harder for some shorter folks, I really had to stretch to make a move, at 5'10".

Definitely worth doing on a main ledge cragging day, or if you're waiting in line for corrugation. Jun 18, 2007
Schoney
Joshua Tree
  5.10d PG13
Schoney   Joshua Tree
  5.10d PG13
As of the summer 08 this rt goes to the top of the wall @ .10d (maybe pg) I did most of the rt, but got off rt after about 4 pitches. Oct 1, 2008
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
Actually this route went to the top shortly after it was first put up in 06. Short .10d section but mostly much easier (dirty) climbing. Nov 11, 2008
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
A must-do if you are climbing on Main Wall and not just gunning for the Corner classics. Jun 10, 2010
Rew Exo
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Rew Exo   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Fun route. There are 6 bolts. I placed a #1 and a #2 camalot. Jul 21, 2018