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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Pool, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youthful Exuberance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: John Robinson and Tom Leksan
Page Views: 2,863 total, 33/month
Shared By: John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route starts out as a steep face climb then goes over a small overhang. Above the overhang make some great stemming moves using the feature on the left (this feature is part of the 3rd pitch of North Face) then up and right to the top anchors of Dragon Back. Sure blows Powerlust away. Full on sport route with a tricky crux but not too powerful of moves. A little pumpy through sections and not too many great rests. A must do on the leap ticklist. This is a very good well protected classic face route at the leap, the only difference is you're actually doing fun moves instead of the standard mind numbing dike mantels that the leap is famous for. The route has several thin moves that lead to a roof that is tricky then there are a few moves after the roof that are pretty crazy. In conclusion this route deserves to be done more and is a blast to climb.

Location

This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Dragon Back, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW, and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. See the Beta Picture at the bottom of this page for information on getting here and rapping off.

Protection

Bolts. Shares the Top Anchors with "Dragon Back"

Photos

Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Another way to access this climb is to climb through the .11a P2 corner pitch of North Face, which is awesome if you can manage it.

From the top of that pitch, you can do a short, slightly rightward rap from the aforementioned P2 anchor to the small ledge at the base of this climb. This avoids the need to do some sketchy 5th class moves (agree that this is definitely NOT 3rd class, and it definitely IS exposed) or short belayed pitch that would be the other way to access those climbs from the "dish" belay at the top of North Face P1. Jul 23, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Pulled off a huge brick at the roof, the route is harder now but still possible. Sep 25, 2016
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
My partner and I led this. The climbing is superb. There is some green-ness about the route with some pebble exfoliation, but all the feet and hands seemed to be staying put.

The problem with both in the party leading is the clean up. I would highly recommend somebody TR it to clean because I lowered off the chains and the resultant sawing of the rope across dikes was not a warm fuzzy situation. The climb is well left of the anchors so you are swinging back and forth... Not fun.

Additionally, the approach from the North Face anchors to the belay anchors is described as "third class"? I would recommend a rope and a finger to 1" piece or two. This is a low 5th class approach pitch. I used double-length slings since you are going down and then up. Mind some loose looking rock before the belay ledge, go straight up and then over to it. I realize "third class" is also the old school descriptor for soloing, just realize that is what you are doing sans rope with a nice 300' or so fall line.


Jun 18, 2015
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Visited the leap for the first time in over 20 years. We did about 15 pitches. This was my favorite sport climb. I found it a mighty stiff 11 B. Jul 17, 2011