Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Dragon Back

5.10b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 16 votes
FA: Bruce Runmals, Al Swanson, 1989
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Main Formation > Main Wall > Main Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Location

This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Absolutely Brilliant, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class (people say this is harder than 3rd class, which it is, but the point is, it's very easy) down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. See the Beta Picture herein for a description.

Description

This is an excellent bolted face climb. The bolts have all been replaced and no gear is required. It shares it's top anchors with Absolutely Brilliant. It is a bit difficult to get to but well worth the effort

Protection

bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbering
[Hide Photo] Climbering
Information on getting to an Alcove where you can then climb the excellent climbs: 2nd pitch of "North Country", 2nd Pitch of "North Face", "Absolutely Brilliant", "Dragon Back" and a 5.9 Off Width See the Beta Picture below.
[Hide Photo] Information on getting to an Alcove where you can then climb the excellent climbs: 2nd pitch of "North Country", 2nd Pitch of "North Face", "Absolutely Brilliant", "Dragon Back" and a 5.9 Off Width…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great route to shake the "Trad Dad" dust off... The bolts get continually more spaced apart, but it is totally fair, as long as you keep your head about you. You are never pulling a crux move any further than a bolt at your feet, but there are some committing psychological moves that occur at the, "Don't blow it" space between your last clip, which arguably makes the experience much more classic.

Thought it was a standout route, an excellent example of dike pulling at The Leap. Apr 20, 2015
Jason Albino
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Another way to access this climb is to climb through the .11a P2 corner pitch of North Face, which is awesome if you can manage it.

From the top of that pitch, you can do a short, slightly rightward rap from the aforementioned P2 anchor to the small ledge at the base of this climb. This avoids the need to do some sketchy 5th class moves (agree that this is definitely NOT 3rd class, and it definitely IS exposed) or short belayed pitch that would be the other way to access those climbs from the "dish" belay at the top of North Face P1. Jul 23, 2017
Will WB
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I found a nice way to access this and Absolutely Brilliant was to do the 5.7 pitch of North Face Route and then continue questing up and right through low 5th terrain to the belay anchors of Dragon Back and Absolutely Brilliant. If you're going up for these climbs, the low 5th will be easy climbing. There is some protection here and there, but it is adventure climbing. Oct 23, 2024