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Mt. Evans

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 17, 2002
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Elevation: 14,264 feet
Latitude: 39.5886  Longitude: -105.6430 
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Views: 122,652 page views

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Beautiful morning at Summit Lake.


Description 

This is a beautiful area of alpine rock with minimal approaches where you can climb stellar, alpine, granite climbs up to 1400 ft and be done in time for lunch or launch into a full adventure with aid climbing at 12000+ft. Some of the best quality alpine granite in the Front Range lies here. Free routes in the area like Roofer Madness, Jabba the Hut, Cheap Date, 2nd Apron Center, 3rd Apron Left, Road Warrior, Good Evans, Cary Granite see little traffic. Bouldering has become quite popular in recent years with 4 star problems like The Dali Sit Down Start, Seurat, and The Ladder. There is room for much more; however, tread lightly here as the terrain tolerates less abuse than lower areas. There may even be lines to do off Guanella Pass ascending to the Sawtooth Traverse. Routes have been put up on Mt. Warren. Aid routes on the overhanging sections of the Black Wall see rare repeats. There are also routes "down valley" from the Black Wall on Mt. Spaulding. Descents can be as demanding as sticking a thumb out as the tourist drive by. Beware of the usual summer lightning storms.


Getting There 

I-70 W of Denver to Idaho Springs. Exit 240 up the Mt Evans road brings you to Echo Lake. Follow the summit road to Summit Lake about 12,500 ft. Note you may be coerced to pay a toll fee (fee demonstration program) now that has increased to $10 or have a Parks Pass ($80) with the $15 hologram add on to make it a Golden Eagle Pass. They are staffing the toll collection site by 7:45am! Black Wall and Summit aprons are accessed by parking at the Summit Lake parking area.

There may be a way to insist on a pass without use of the Forest Service facilities for a fee-less visit to Mt. Evans.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Evans:
The Ladder   V2     Boulder, Alpine, 1 pitch, 10 feet   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Thing Across From Bierstadt   V3     Boulder, Alpine, 10 feet   Area A : Bierstadt Area
The Dali Sit Down Start   V9     Boulder, Alpine, 15 feet   Area A : The Dali Area
2nd Apron Center   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II   The Aprons
2nd Apron Right Side   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 850 feet   The Aprons
Road Warrior   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   The Black Wall
Cannonball Corner   5.10c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   The Black Wall
Coffee Achievers   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   The Black Wall
Good Evans   5.10d     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   The Black Wall
Cary Granite   5.11c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 480 feet, Grade III   The Black Wall
Browse More Classics in Mt. Evans

Featured Route For Mt. Evans
After the descent.

The Bad Finger Couloir Steep Snow  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Black Wall
Super aesthetic couloir lookers right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.Good timing is imperative on this on...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Mt. Evans Slideshow Add Photo
Tundra and clouds near Summit Lake.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Tundra and clouds near Summit Lake.
Photo by Blitz...


My brother on Emancipation left.

My brother on Emancipation left.

Me on Emancipation.

Me on Emancipation.

Checkerboard left, don't fall on this one! I fell, and it was almost deadly.

Checkerboard left, don't fall on this one! I fell,...

Chip's project on the Checkerboard.

Chip's project on the Checkerboard.

Mt. Evans.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Mt. Evans.
Photo by Blitzo.


Speers on the Sawtooth.

Speers on the Sawtooth.

Summit Lake from near the summit.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Summit Lake from near the summit.
Photo by Blitzo.


Looking down from the summit of Bierstadt onto the Sawtooth.

Looking down from the summit of Bierstadt onto the...

Looking back from near the top of the Sawtooth back towards Mt. Bierstadt

Looking back from near the top of the Sawtooth bac...

Tracy on Bierstadt's East Ridge.

Tracy on Bierstadt's East Ridge.

Tracy enjoying Bierstadt's early bird special, the Granite Scramble.

Tracy enjoying Bierstadt's early bird special, the...

The REAL climbers

The REAL climbers

Climbers on Good Evans, Black Wall of Mount Evans.  Photo by Trask Bradbury.

Climbers on Good Evans, Black Wall of Mount Evans....

First pitch of Good Evans.  Photo by Trask Bradbury.

First pitch of Good Evans. Photo by Trask Bradbur...

Crag at Mount Warren.

Crag at Mount Warren.

Abyss Lake basin at dawn.

Abyss Lake basin at dawn.

Goats on the north face of Evans.

Goats on the north face of Evans.

Voluntary wildlife closure map, including Black Wall and all Upper Chicago Lakes climbing, May 1st - June 30th.

BETA PHOTO: Voluntary wildlife closure map, including Black Wa...

Brian following pitch 3, Chris or Tim leading below him. 2nd apron righhhhhht side! Hint taken?

Brian following pitch 3, Chris or Tim leading belo...

My contribution toward destroying the wilderness, one pic at a time.<br /><br />Lower Abyss area.

My contribution toward destroying the wilderness, ...

Evans summer storm pic.

Evans summer storm pic.

Evans Storm Shot2 - cool effect on it.

Evans Storm Shot2 - cool effect on it.

Bouldering near Lincoln Lake.

Bouldering near Lincoln Lake.

Bouldering on the Dali Block, Chicago Lakes Area.

Bouldering on the Dali Block, Chicago Lakes Area.

Jewc crags.

Jewc crags.

It's a long way to Tipperary,<br />It's a long way to go.<br />It's a long way to Tipperary<br />To the sweetest girl I know.

It's a long way to Tipperary,
It's a long way to g...


Damn dirty animals.

Damn dirty animals.

Clouds 'n' stuff near Summit Lake.

Clouds 'n' stuff near Summit Lake.

Kite flying at 14000 feet.

Kite flying at 14000 feet.

summit lake

summit lake

Pretty blue sky, and pretty sharp rock.

Pretty blue sky, and pretty sharp rock.


Comments on Mt. Evans Add Comment
Show which comments
By BoulderGuy10
Feb 3, 2003

Mt Evans has some sweet gneiss routes that span from 50 to hundreds of feet. Go to the Chicago Lakes and on the trail you will be able to see the cliffs. There is awsome bouldering also in the area. Before you go besure to fully research.

By Shawn Shannon
From: Denver, CO
Feb 3, 2003

Generally, what time of year is climbing here accessible. I don't mind wet approaches, or cold temps, just good rock.... any advice??

By Derek Wolfe
Sep 9, 2004

Does anyone know of any routes from the Chicago Lake basin near Mt. Evans or how solid the rock might be??

By Jer Collins
Apr 26, 2005

I've done a few routes from the Chicago Lakes basin. The rock is okay, and sometimes fantastic, but the logistics leave a little to be desired. At the lower lake, look East to Mt. Warren. This is "Windy City Wall" and the center buttress is "Sears Tower".

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 5, 2005

Can anyone give directions to the bouldering at Mt Evans? much thanks CL

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 30, 2007

From the Rocky Mt News (4/29/7):

State chops down feds' fee for motoring up Mt. Evans.

by Steve Lipsher

The views along the Mount Evans Highway have been described as priceless, but for the past nine years the U.S. Forest Service has managed to nick as much as $10 from virtually every vehicle heading up the highest paved road in the country.

That practice will come to an abrupt end this summer. The Colorado Department of Transportation insists the federal government cannot charge for use of a state highway built and maintained with state tax dollars.

"We didn't know that they were charging everyone," said CDOT spokeswoman Stacey Stegman. "...It's illegal under state law."

The Forest Service began charging travelers at its Echo Lake entrance station in 1997 under the controversial federal fee-demonstration program, which has generated as much as $300,000 annually for upkeep of restrooms, picnic areas and safety patrols on the mountain.

Few visitors have understood that the fees don't apply to those traveling to and from the 14,126-foot summit parking lot who don't use Forest Service picnic areas and restrooms. In fact, a sign posted at the bottom of the winding, 28-mile road reads: "A pass is required for traveling beyond this point."

"They have been misrepresenting things. The average person would think that he had to pay," said Robert Funkhouser, president of the Western Slope No-Fee Coalition, an organization battling the federal government over fees for the use of public lands.

Forest officials dispute that characterization insisting the "pass" could be obtained free of charge. They acknowledge many people didn't discern the difference between acquiring a pass and paying a fee.

Drivers had to ask specifically about the pass or they would be charged the use fees.

Completed in 1927, the summer-only dead-end highway each year attracts an estimated 130,000 visitors.

This past winter, when the state and federal authorities began revisiting their agreement on the operation of Colorado 5, state officials learned every vehicle was being charged.

State officials demanded that the renewed agreement include signs indicating "No charge for travel on State Highway 5" and "USFS fees are not used to maintain State Highway 5."

The Forest Service balked, not wanting to pay for the signs.

"They're thinking "How are we going to get people to pay if they don't have to pay?" Funkhouser said.

The state intends to install signs with or without federal approval, according to e-mails obtained from Jay Kramer, a manager with CDOT.

With the traditional opening about a month away, forest supervisors haven't decided how the road will be managed, but possibilities include abandoning the entrance station and establishing permanent fee-collection stations at facilities maintained by the agency, said John Bustos, spokesman for the Arapaho and Roosevelt national forests.

The Forest Service also hasn't hazarded a guess on how much its budget will be cut if far fewer people pay.

Staff write Steve Lipsher can be reached at 970-51309495 or slipsher@denverpost.com.

By John Simpson
From: Golden, CO
Feb 12, 2008

Does anyone know if there have been any routes put up on the cirque that is below the Sawtooth on the non-Abyss lake side?

By Jason Haas
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 12, 2008

John, there's a photo of a new route on Evans in one of my photo albums if you click on my name and navigate down to the bottom of the page. I can fill you in on more details if you'd like sometime.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 13, 2008

There are a few, apparently. One of the looks like this:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tony_bubb/105845099

By Kauz
Jul 20, 2009

I would also like beta on the bouldering there. I know there is quite a bit, including Jade (V15), Big Worm (V14), and Sunseeker (V13). Would anyone like to get some of the information about the boulders up or DM me about them for my upcoming trip to that area?