Lover's Leap

Lover's Leap panoramic

Description 

This area is an excellent 250 - 500 foot chunk of mostly vertical granite containing hundreds of horizontal dikes. The resulting climbing is primarily traditional, but has a air of safety because there are rests every few feet. Most of the climbing here is traditional, and you will find about 150 routes that range from bouldering to 4 pitches. Some routes are sport, but most of the sport climbing is .11 or so, as the abundance of easier traditional routes discourages some excellent sport face climbing. All of the routes demand less than 20 minutes to "hike" into, as the entrance path is part of the pioneer trail, and therefore excellently maintained and quite wide. Once you veer off the trail towards the rock things get steep, but are surprisingly easy on the way up.

You can camp at the campground at the entrance to the pioneer trail at the main parking lot, about 1/5 - 2/3 of a mile from all climbs.

Conveniently located at the edge of the campground are a few large boulders worth doing. From the parking lot, head uphill and cross over the small foot bridge to the Pony Express Trail. Hang a left, and walk up the gently sloped trail for about 3 minutes.

Almost all multipitch routes are best to walk off, both for the preservation of existing vegetation, and that most routes don't have any fixed protection at the top of the rock due to the abundance of trees, cracks, and large rocks at the top.

You can get pretty good food at the Strawberry Lodge, when it's open.

Getting There 

From the Bay Area / Sacramento: Head East on highway 50 towards Placerville. Continue past Placerville to the town of Strawberry, which is approximately 8 miles past the more marked Kyburz. Turn off the freeway onto the small route that parallels the 50 just on the far side of the Strawberry lodge, which is hard to miss on your right. This is about 40 miles past Placerville. You get a good glimpse of the west and main walls as you get close to the Lodge on a clear day.

From Lake Tahoe: Head 18 miles West on Highway 50 to the town of Strawberry, where you should head a left just before the Strawberry Lodge, which will approach on your left after a magnificent view of Lover's Leap looming to the left on the way to the lodge.

From the Strawberry Lodge: Follow the road that Parallels the 50. At the junction, head left, and travel through the small neighborhood quietly and slowly, as advised by local signs. You will run directly into the parking lot about 1/3 mile later.

The trailhead is towards the rear of the lot.

Featured Route For Lover's Leap

Corrugation Corner 5.7  CA : Lover's Leap : Main Wall

A varied four-pitch climb that goes to the highest point on the Leap. Follows the huge right facing corner just to the right of Traveler's Buttress. First pitch is in the corner. The second pitch sneaks out on the left face leading to the base of a chimney. The third pitch climbs the chimney, traverses 5.7 past a fixed piton, and then hops on a beautiful exposed arete. The fourth pitch is basic and can be avoided with a 60m rope....[more]

Add Photo Photos of Lover's Leap

Lover's Leap. Photo by Blitzo.	Lover's Leap, storm. Photo by Blitzo.	BETA PHOTO: Be careful of where you leave you pack, especially...
BETA PHOTO: Lovers Leap Campground Boulders