Climbing Nightstalker on Owl Rock, Cochise Strongh...
Description
Cochise Stronghold is a spectacular landscape of rugged canyons and towering granite domes. While there is certainly something for everyone in this vast area, those seeking traditional, multi pitch climbing will have a special appreciation for climbing here in the Dragoon Mountains.
The amount of climbing in Cochise Stronghold is absurd, and some of the rock is of outstanding quality. Many super classic routes, put up by pioneering climbers since the 1970's, ascend the various spires and domes in the area. Many of the quality crack climbs in Southern Arizona are found here, as are some of the longest routes in this part of the state. Some of these historic routes are difficult, committing, and runout. If you can't climb them this way, go climb something else.
With regards to new route development, this area is evolving. If you are considering a new line, ask yourself if you are truly contributing something of quality to what is already there. You may be looking at a line that has already been done! Ask around and please think before you drill.
This area is of great cultural significance to many people. Treat it with due respect.
A large portion of the climbing in Cochise Stronghold is closed seasonally for raptor nesting. Current closures are from March 1 - June 30 and include the entire Rockfellow Group. Check with the Forest Service for changes and current closures.
Climbing is Cochise Stronghold is a true backcountry experience. The remote setting, coupled with the committing nature of many of the climbs here, require preparation beyond that of roadside cragging on Mt Lemmon. The terrain is rugged and maze-like, and it is generally easier to get lost than to get where you are going. Allow plenty of time for approaches and err on the side of caution.
For more information and some interesting background on Cochise Stronghold, see Bob Kerry's guide 'Backcountry Climbing in Southern Arizona.'
Getting There
Drive east from Tucson on I-10 to exit #318. Head south (right) on Arizona Hwy. 191 for several miles. Just before Sunsites, take a right and continue several miles to Cochise Stronghold. The Forest Service maintains a nice campground at the end of the road, replete with picnic tables, toilets, and nearby bouldering.
ACCESS UPDATE!!!
Contact: Gary Helbing — Wildlife Biologist, Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.3468.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cochise Stronghold:
A great climb. Make sure you are comfortable slinging chickenheads & plates and belaying off of slung chickenheads before attempting this route. P1: Climb the face up and left to a small arch (usually with webbing on it), sling the arch, then head up and right to a belay ledge. P2: Traverse right to the crack/groove and follow it up to a nice belay below short chimney. P3: Climb up and left through the chimney and exit left on top of the smal...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Be aware of the access changes since the first Kerry edition. In October of '05, my girlfriend and I were chased down by an ATV, and a Ford F350. The trailer residents at the second (knocked down) gate were very hostile with us. Better to go all the way around to Middlemarch or find an alternate way.
Treat yourself to a really good cuppa joe in Willcox at Espresso. It's right across the street from the old train depot. Fresh sludge made by a fellow who moved to the desert six years ago after tiring of rainy Seattle. Also killer cinnamon rolls and other fresh-baked goodies, all with a friendly small-town ambiance that welcomed us after the de rigueur all-night drive from Denver.
By brad schierer From: your imagination Jul 18, 2006
What's My LIne isn't the only classic. If you're in the Stronghold, the best place to head is the Rockfellow group with stuff like Forest Lawn (5.9), Days of Future Past (5.9 R), Endgame (5.10), Abracadaver (5.11). etc. This area has tons of classics that would be plastered all over Climbing and Rock and Ice if you didn't have to do the stairmaster hike from hell to get there, but hey that's half the fun of climbing in Cochise. Be sure to check out westside classics like Moby Dick (5.8) and Warpaint (5.10c). Peace and may Cochise be with you.
I was thinking I would come and climb in the west stronghold near the end of march and stay for a week, culminating the trip with a visit to levithan dome and the surrounding area in the santa catalinas. What is the temp at these areas that time of year, is it possible to climb in cochise? levithan? I have the backcountry guide and I was wondering if any other route development/upkeep of anchors/protection bolts on levithan has happened since the printing of that book? thanks folks
Casey, As far as I know the few very old bolts on the north face route on Leviathon have not been replaced. But that said it's stil a great back country route worth the approach. I would suggest, in March, that you start hiking well before first light on the trail which should deposit you at the drainage to the dome at sun up. We did this route in April in twelve hours car to car. We, through the luck of the gods, dialed the approach in 2 hours. Add more time if you botch it. Kerrys guide is good if you pay attention. Bring a head lamp, days are short in March!! The approach sucks so fast and light is much better than heavy and slow, with an overnight. IMO.
I'm planning a trip into the Stronghold for Wed-Fri, unfortunately the weather looks terrible and I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the road into the west Stronghold, where we were planning to climb (i.e., if we get in there and then endure torrential downpours, will the drive out become problematic for our 2wd car?).
I'm assuming the east Stronghold road would be a better alternative but having never been to either, I just don't know--any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
Charles, I was just there yesterday. Middlemarch road is well-graded and no problem in any conditions, the road to Sheepshead could get a bit muddy but passable in a car. The end of the road into Whale Dome et al could be very difficult to travel in a car if it rains heavily.
Did anyone find a small digital camera in the parking lot for Sheepshead on 3 Jan 09? If so, please email me so I can get it back. I really just need the 150+ pictures that were taken that day...Thanks Eric
The Falcon guide "RC:AZ" states the Cochise Campground has water. Is this the case and, if so, is the water on year-round? Sure would be nice to not haul 5 to 10 gallons of water down there on a road trip. :-) Thanks for any info you can provide.
We had issues with a chewed hole in a food pack left at the base of a climb. On several other days, we instead brought a backpack-style aluminum pot and lid for the food and put a large rock on top of that. Worked 3 out of 4 times with the 4th being a case where the pot was not supported on the sides and/or the hold-down rock being too light (~10 pounds). ... and leave pack pockets open.
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