Type: Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches
FA: Merle Wheeler, Mark and Gary Axen, 1972.
Page Views: 13,193 total · 48/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 23, 2001
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Another great route. The first pitch is best and is what justifies the classic rating, but the rest is also good.

Approach Stronghold dome via the standard trail. You will see a striking roof on the south end of the East face, perhaps 70 feet off of the gound. A fingercrack ascends to the roof from the ground.

P1: 5.9, 140'. Climb a fingercrack from the ground up to the roof above on the south end of the East face of the Stronghold Dome. This is the finest and hardest part of this route.

Climb out and right to traverse the roof and reach a flake system with some questionable rock. The gear here is as good as the rock you put it in, which is questionable in places. Keep on your toes and keep climbing out the flake. Eventually, this will go up over a mild bulge and cross the blunt corner to the right... after which it will become a solid crack leading to a good bolted belay out on the South face.

P2: 5.7 or 5.9+, 140'. This pitch is moderate, but more than moderately runout. We "missed" the easy part and ended up on a bolted variation to the top. For the 5.7 climb up and left toward the East edge of the South Face, past a bolt, and then past a horizontal and up left to the summit. Otherwise, you will encounter a bolted line (5.9+?) which we rode up and zig-zagged to the summit.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack of nuts and cams. Heavy on the finger-sized gear for the crux on P1.The crux is well protected, but the second is not.