Avg: 3.4 from 95 votes
Routes in Stronghold Dome
|Abril Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Apache Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Bee Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Big Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Bounty, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|End Chimney, Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|End Chimneys, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Greasy Gizzards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Rheen's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Shake N Bake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Stand, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Merle Wheeler, Mark and Gary Axen, 1972.|
|Page Views:||9,001 total, 46/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 23, 2001|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionWe did this route in 3 pitches, not 2. This worked well for us.
Another great route. The first pitch is best and is what justifies the classic rating, but the rest is also good.
Approach Stronghold dome via the standard trail. You will see a striking roof on the south end of the East face, perhaps 70 feet off of the gound. A fingercrack ascends to the roof from the ground.
P1: 5.9, 70'. Climb a fingercrack from the ground up to the roof above on the south end of the East face of the Stronghold Dome. This is the finestand hardest pitch of this route. Belay below the roof (optional).
P2: 5.8, 70'. Climb out and right from the previous pitch to traverse the roof and reach a flake system with some questionable rock. The gear here is as good as the rock you put it in, which is questionable in places. Keep on your toes and keep climbing out the flake. Eventually this will goes up over a mild bulge and cross the blunt corner to the right... whereupon it will become a solid crack leading to a good bolted belay out on the South face.
P3: 5.7 or 5.9+, 140'. This pitch is moderate, but more than moderately runout. We "missed" the easy part and ended up on a bolted variation to the top. For the 5.7 climb up and left toward the East Edge Edge of the South Face, past a bolt and then past a horizontal and up left to the summit. Otherwise you will encounter a bolted line (5.9+?) which we rode up and zig-zagged to the summit.