End Chimneys, Right
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in Stronghold Dome
|Abril Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Apache Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Bee Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Big Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Bounty, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|End Chimney, Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|End Chimneys, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Greasy Gizzards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Rheen's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Shake N Bake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Stand, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|Page Views:||1,150 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Lawry on Feb 20, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionClimb the right side of detached blocks that have a small tree on top, and face-climb up and right until established in the crack. I felt the crux was the lower part of the off-width section. I have very little off-width experience and so this section likely felt two grades harder than reality. Hence, the 5.7 rating is mainly based on Bob Kerry's guide.
The route transitions into a large chimney eventually shared with the left crack. However, about where the off-width turns into a chimney (which happened to be after using up all my big gear; see below), I bailed out of the crack up rightward onto a sea of plates. I then followed someone else's blood trail to the top, adding a bit to it. Finally, I stepped left across the chimney to the anchors. Another more experienced person in our party top-roped the chimney section and felt it was good "chimney college." Perhaps someone else will comment on the protection in the chimney section.
Double-rope rap back to the base.
Make your best guess as to which side to put in the off-width/chimney. But consider switching if it is not getting you much mileage.
LocationLocate the large roof on the left side of the main face. To the left of the roof is a smaller face perpendicular to the main face. End Chimneys consist of two separate large cracks that join roughly 25 feet before a horizontal crack with chained anchors. The two large cracks vary from off-width near the bottom to chimney near/at the top. For a picture, see page 214 of Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona. The above description is for the right crack.
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