End Chimneys, Right

Climb the right side of detached blocks that have a small tree on top, and face-climb up and right until established in the crack. I felt the crux was the lower part of the off-width section. I have very little off-width experience and so this section likely felt two grades harder than reality. Hence, the 5.7 rating is mainly based on Bob Kerry's guide.

The route transitions into a large chimney eventually shared with the left crack. However, about where the off-width turns into a chimney (which happened to be after using up all my big gear; see below), I bailed out of the crack up rightward onto a sea of plates. I then followed someone else's blood trail to the top, adding a bit to it. Finally, I stepped left across the chimney to the anchors. Another more experienced person in our party top-roped the chimney section and felt it was good "chimney college." Perhaps someone else will comment on the protection in the chimney section.

Double-rope rap back to the base.

Make your best guess as to which side to put in the off-width/chimney. But consider switching if it is not getting you much mileage.

Locate the large roof on the left side of the main face. To the left of the roof is a smaller face perpendicular to the main face. End Chimneys consist of two separate large cracks that join roughly 25 feet before a horizontal crack with chained anchors. The two large cracks vary from off-width near the bottom to chimney near/at the top. For a picture, see page 214 of Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona. The above description is for the right crack.

I took five cams from 4" to 7" and felt like I could have used a couple more in that range. Someone more familiar with off-widths may be quite happy with less. I also used several medium-sized cams and several medium-sized nuts for the above variation.