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Routes in Stronghold Dome

Abril Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apache Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bee Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Big Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bounty, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
End Chimney, Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
End Chimneys, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Greasy Gizzards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rheen's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shake N Bake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stand, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Baker, Mike McEwen 1972
Page Views: 3,031 total · 26/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on May 9, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Where's the crux ?
Ha ha ha......
The crux is not blowing beets at the top of the first pitch.

A rarely done squeeze/offwidth.

Good warm up for 2nd pitch of Abra.
Or maybe Abra is a good warm up for this ?

I believe the first lead was Mark Axen but someone should check on that. It has more the feel of a Dave Baker lead. But Mark pointed it out to me in 1976 and told us (Jim Haisley and I) that we had just bagged the second ascent. We were down from Flagstaff for a Beanfest (actually not really a beanfest yet, still a Rich Thompson Climbers Fest) and it was early afternoon and it looked like an obvious line. I think I was wearing blue RRs.

I recall wanting more gear as I grunted up it.

I also recall that even though it was early/mid October, the sun was blazing hot and baking the face as I shaked away 20 ft from the last sideways 2 point 11 hex.

The name is right on.

Save it for a cloudy day in cool weather.

Location

The obvious arching crack on the left hand side of Stronghold dome's main east face.

You can't miss it.
If it looks like a nasty squeeze/offwidth, then you've found it.

Protection

I'd imagine a rack big bros, etc... would be nice.
We had #11 hexes and maybe a tube chock.
With a belay in the solid chimney stance, we had to simul the last 40 feet or so with a 60m to do the climb in 2 pitches. Best to do this one in the shade or when it's cooler, and make sure to know how to get off this dome or you're in for an adventure. Oct 17, 2017
davidbr  
At the top of the first pitch, you can build an anchor nicely with one each of BD #2,3,and 6. A BD #5 will also work, but the placement is below where you would comfortable stand, so you have to extend the anchor and hang a bit, which is less comfortable.
From the belay stance at the top of the first pitch, you can't really see much of the crack. The part of it which you can't see would take BD #5s. Apr 9, 2014
Chris Prewitt
  5.9+
Chris Prewitt  
  5.9+
Great rock and solid 5.9 climbing on this asthetic line. Drastically easier than Abra's OW.

Pitch 1 (5.9+, 100'): I found most of the climbing on the first pitch to consist heavily of left-hand fist jams and right-foot edges, with knee-rests as needed. Most of the crack contains enough subtle features inside and out to reduce thrutching. Also, well protected where you want it to be.

Pitch 2: Mostly chickenheading along the crack until the water streak, where moving up (old bolt) and left leads to a gear belay by a boulder (5.7, 150') or stretch the rope to belay on top. This pitch doesn't take gear as well as the first but is not unusual by Stronghold standards.

Russ' gear beta is great; here's what we used:
(1).5-1, 3.5, 5 BD; 5,6 WC
(2 ea.) 2,3,4 BD, 4 WC
med nuts
runners

To gain the Beeline raps: walk up slabs until it is possible to scrable down to the boulders below. Continue down to rappel slings around a large chockstone. A single 60M will reach a pine and another short rap. A 70 would probably reach the ground in one. Don't get stuck!

One final note, mid-50s with a l/s shirt felt perfect in the sun. Jan 1, 2010
Nice update and pics Russ.

I'll even add in another wire to someone who'll grab Russ's booty.
(Assuming you climb the wide crack to get to to it; raps from above don't count.) Jan 5, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Good route! Crux seemed to be the first 15 feet, so drop a couple of cams in (3" size) at the base to keep you and your belayer from taking a roller off the ledge in case of mishaps.

The actual route takes 4" gear until about 2/3rds height were it opens up enough for a Wild Country #6 cam. Pro is real good and this would only get a PG rating if you were doing it on passive pro. I placed 4 or so cams in the #3.5 to #4 Camalot range and then one #6 Wild Country up near the top. I had 2 of the #5 Wild Country cams with me, but they were too big to place in the business section, and were not used.

I belayed in the chimney for the end of the first pitch. It is an obvious pod where you can stuff a thigh into the crack and if you have any gear left, a #5 or #6 Wild Country cam will provide a poor backup. Something in the 2.5" to 3.5" size would be a better alternative at this belay. We did not do the second pitch, and opted to rap off in the twilight from a super sketch anchor of a slung horn, a suspect finger of fractured rock, and a wired stopper. BOOOOTY!!!!!! Go get it!

Try here for more info too: widefetish.com/routes/shake… Jan 5, 2009
Chris Prewitt
  5.9+
Chris Prewitt  
  5.9+
Paul, your feeling was right; FA was Dave Baker and Mike McEwan. Apparently back at that time Mike was hooked on the chicken seasoning of the same name. Jul 20, 2008