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Routes in Stronghold Dome

Abril Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apache Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bee Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Big Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bounty, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
End Chimney, Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
End Chimneys, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Greasy Gizzards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rheen's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shake N Bake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Stand, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Elevation: 5,436 ft
GPS: 31.93, -109.971 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,698 total · 71/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 12, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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The Stronghold Dome is huge buttress which may be a dome by definition, but not in character. This 400'+ rock holds several good crack and face lines, out of the slabby character that the word 'dome' calls to my mind when I hear it. These lines include the classic Beeline (9+) as well as other good routes such as Big Time(5.10), Reen's Arete (7), and Shake & Bake(9+). There are also three 5.11 sport routes here reputed to be of good quality.

The rock on Stronghold Dome is mostly good, but there are some flaky sections on a few routes. Climb with caution on these and place gear carefully. Stronghold Dome has a mild approach, so you can run up there for multiple routes, or on a part-day to get in just a few pitches.

The South face gets daytime sun, but the East side is shaded in late day and sunny in the morning. Plan as per the weather.

To descend from any of the top-out-routes, rap off of the West end with 2 50+ Meter ropes (improvise) or walk off to the north, then scramble down west and back south.

Getting There

From the East side campground parking area, walk back NE on the road until you come to a huge rock in the middle of the road. There are probably still multiple no-parking signs here at what otherwise would be the trail-head. Up the hill to the north you will see a huge buttress, which is Cochise Dome. Hike up a drainage, following cairns and a well-worn trail to the buttress. If you keep an eye out for it, you will not only see the trail, but also some native rock-art on a few boulders on the way in. At the top of the drainage the trail turns east and heads directly to the west end of the Cochise Dome. You will arrive near the base of Beeline.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stronghold Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Rheen's Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End Chimneys, Right
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bee Line
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shake N Bake
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Time
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rheen's Arete
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
End Chimneys, Right
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bee Line
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Shake N Bake
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Big Time
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stronghold Dome »

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The huge, round, boulder 220 meters East, South East of Stronghold Dome is the most wicked thing out there ! It would be the sickest boulder in the Buttermilks. It is 15 meters high, with overhanging patina on all sides. Dec 3, 2017
Is there going to be a boulderer take over now? I saw a picture of some boulder labelled the Stronghold and I wrote the guy asking where it was (most photos I can get a pretty good sense of location). It was high up on a hillside and it showed the valley cascading below. I thought it must be the East Side up by Out of Towners Dome based on the angle and topography, the rock was identical with plates and green lichen, but I knew there no boulders that looked like it up there. I would have bet money that it was somewhere there. He told me it was in Bishop. IDENTICAL! Feb 4, 2018

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