Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Rich Thompson 1973
Page Views: 15,868 total · 90/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Read this Access Note! Details

Description

Another Rockfellow classic. This is located on End Pinnacle on the west side of the area. Approach by skirting around the formation to the right from the approach. The climb is the first crack to the left of the large chimney separating End Pinnacle from the rest of the formation. Thanks to Scott Ayers for correcting some of my faulty memories.

Pitch 1: The crack doesn't quite reach the ground so you have to start to the left, up to a bolt, and then traverse right to the main crack. Depending on how tall you are (I'm 6'6" so my ratings are all very suspect) this is anywhere from 5.8+ to 5.10b. A little tension will get you through this if you can't make the reach. Once in the main crack, chimney up and then use chickenheads on the right to reach a bolted belay. The rest of the route is 5.8+ or so - the difficulty is not really 10b but the runouts above make the route quite serious. The chimney is fairly secure but not really protectable - you might feel this is a bit R-rated. (160', 5.8 A0 or 5.10b if free climbed)

Pitch 2: Follow an excellent fist sized crack up until it ends at a hanging belay stance (5.8+)

Pitch 3: Climb steep face past three bolts to a welcome ledge (first non-hanging belay!). This is almost R rated - there are 3 bolts in 120' of climbing. Last time I led this I wussed out to the chimney on the right after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. (120', 5.8+)

Pitch 4: Up past a couple of bolts to the summit. The start is pretty runout to the first bolt 25' up. This one has never bothered me much though.

Descent: Start from a pine tree at the east side of the summit, overlooking the fissure separating EP from the main dome. Two double rope raps take you into the big chimney. You need to go up through a hole to find the last rap station that takes you to the bottom on the side opposite the climb. This is all pretty hazy for me so be careful!

Protection

You'll need some slings for chickenheads on P1 and perhaps an extra #2 - #3 camalot for P2. Hexes work well on this pitch.

Photos