Mountain Project Logo

Routes in End Pinnacle

Be All, End All T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cap'm Pissgums T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Days of Future Passed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jimmywacky T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magnus Veritas T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poetry in Motion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Son of Gums T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncarved Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to the Machine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Rich Thompson 1973
Page Views: 13,555 total, 94/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


81 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

Another Rockfellow classic. This is located on End Pinnacle on the west side of the area. Approach by skirting around the formation to the right from the approach. The climb is the first crack to the left of the large chimney separating End Pinnacle from the rest of the formation. Thanks to Scott Ayers for correcting some of my faulty memories.

Pitch 1: The crack doesn't quite reach the ground so you have to start to the left, up to a bolt, and then traverse right to the main crack. Depending on how tall you are (I'm 6'6" so my ratings are all very suspect) this is anywhere from 5.8+ to 5.10b. A little tension will get you through this if you can't make the reach. Once in the main crack, chimney up and then use chickenheads on the right to reach a bolted belay. The rest of the route is 5.8+ or so - the difficulty is not really 10b but the runouts above make the route quite serious. The chimney is fairly secure but not really protectable - you might feel this is a bit R-rated. (160', 5.8 A0 or 5.10b if free climbed)

Pitch 2: Follow an excellent fist sized crack up until it ends at a hanging belay stance (5.8+)

Pitch 3: Climb steep face past three bolts to a welcome ledge (first non-hanging belay!). This is almost R rated - there are 3 bolts in 120' of climbing. Last time I led this I wussed out to the chimney on the right after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. (120', 5.8+)

Pitch 4: Up past a couple of bolts to the summit. The start is pretty runout to the first bolt 25' up. This one has never bothered me much though.

Descent: Start from a pine tree at the east side of the summit, overlooking the fissure separating EP from the main dome. Two double rope raps take you into the big chimney. You need to go up through a hole to find the last rap station that takes you to the bottom on the side opposite the climb. This is all pretty hazy for me so be careful!

Protection

You'll need some slings for chickenheads on P1 and perhaps an extra #2 - #3 camalot for P2. Hexes work well on this pitch.
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
If anyone happens to climb this soon my shirt/sweater is (or was) stuck on the first pitch. Threw them down after the second and didn't quite clear the formation. If you find them and want to get em' back to me I'd be stoked! Oct 22, 2017
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b R
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b R
Thanks George! I will correct this in the book and in the free topo. :)

[EDIT 1/19/16] The updated topo is now posted. Nov 18, 2016
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Recommend a #4 (or 2 of these for a 5.8/5.9 leader) on p2.

On the raps, if rapping the face itself back to the start:
Note the Too Fast topo has a couple minor errors which caused us some confusion. From the p3 ledge, it is ~100' to the 2 bolt anchor atop Days p2. It is ~130' to the p2 anchor on Magnas Veritas (our single 70m didn't reach on that rappel), so use 2 ropes for this rappel, and 2 ropes for the next one from Magnas belay 2 to Magnas belay 1. Nov 13, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Another recommendation to do Magnus Veritas P1... really fun pitch. Hard (10+), well protected slab and then fun jug hauling with not the best pro but easy, though steep! Belay at the end of the pitch is better than P1 Day's spot and it is easy to join from there

Also, for conversation's sake, I thought the scariest part was right off P2 belay... pretty thin and would be a shitty fall onto your belayer... eases way up after that Jan 6, 2015
P. A.  
It can definitely get a bit windy on top of end pinnacle
youtube.com/watch?v=mjyQNJM… Jan 23, 2014
303scott  
 
You can rappel the route directly climber's right of Days with double ropes. From the top, use the rap rings you clipped on your way to the anchor near the bowl and rap 90' to the third belay on days. Then rap the bolt line climber's right of Days. Easy to find the anchors, clean pulls and you end up at your packs. Don't know if a single rope will do it. Mar 3, 2013
Jimbo  
Last time I did Days I led the first pitch of Magna Veritas and then stepped over to Days. Probably R rated but more fun than the fat stuff. Oct 30, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Great route, after the first 50' or so. The chimney (my apologies to those who like hard chimneys) really detracts from the quality of this line, and the offwidth just before the chimney isn't much fun either, unless you really like grunt work, ha ha. Once out of the chimney, Days of Future Passed is a 4 star route.

The delicate slab climbing to start pitch 4 feels more like .10a than 5.8 and lead falls on pitches 3 and 4 could be quite serious. 5.10a A0 R or 5.10d/5.11a R if you free the opening traverse.

Great summit, great views. We rapped from the top of End Pinnacle in 3 raps with one 70m rope and a little down climbing. A 60m rope will not make the final rap as our 70 just made it to the boulder with rope stretch. Oct 28, 2012
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c R
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c R
cool, cool route! I'm glad I didn't lead pitch 1 or 3, yikes-Mike K. did awesome-both the AZ Mikes who lead it that day did great! But I still loved it all, the chimney P1 was a grunt, hard (and getting up to it). The party before us, and Mike K., they all made it look really effortless-when I got on there, I was scared at that traversy section, and huffing & puffing blow your house down style in chimney. I was so happy to have lucked out with leading P2, what an awesome, stellar pitch! It's hard to consider P1 5.9... but maybe that's just me. Amazing classic route! We came back to the packs via inner passageway... (interiors), and that certainly left an impression... Nov 1, 2011
Matthias Gottmann
  5.9 PG13
Matthias Gottmann  
  5.9 PG13
To be accurate, this route is (as advertised) 5.9/A0 or 5.10. The aid move can quite safely be freed.
This is my all time favorite climb, a fantastic adventure. I agree with John on bypassing the chimney out of the alcove and climbing chicken heads instead. Matter of fact, I climbed this route with John.
:) Apr 18, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10a PG13
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10a PG13
Interesting...when I first climbed this route 25 years ago, it was rated 5.9. The upper pitches are "pretty sporty" so watch what you are doing. One tip: It is possible (and desirable) to step out left on the scary, overhanging face out of the first belay alcove. It seems unlikely, but the chickenheads are perfect and it is a much better way to go than tackling the flared squeeze chimney above the alcove to get to the crack above(IMHO.) You can sling the chickheads for excellent pro'. Even the descent is an adventure which is why this climb is one of the great, classic adventure climbs in the Stronghold. Take a full rack, some extra slings (for slinging chickenheads,) and have fun! Jan 9, 2010
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Cool route. This is the climb for everyone who did Crimson Chrysalis in Red Rocks and complained that it was overbolted.

Bring at least one 4" cam for pitch 2. Oct 12, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b R
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b R
This climb is outstanding. Great climbing, thoughtful protection, and visually striking. A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/

Enjoy!
Geir Oct 14, 2008
Vince MacMillan
Dolores, CO
 
Vince MacMillan   Dolores, CO
 
Pitch 1 and Pitch 2 are both 115 feet long (i.e. 70 meter rope will do the trick but you still probably want two ropes for the descent). Jan 8, 2008
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Double ropes are useful on this climb if you've gotem. This enables you to protect both the crux move and the entry into the slot without having to worry about hosing yourself or your follower.

I would have given this 4 stars except I absolutely hate hanging belays. Jan 10, 2007
brad schierer
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b PG13
brad schierer   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b PG13
also if you want to wuss out you can escape to Endgame and finish on that route. The real rated R part comes on pitch 4 when if you were to land on the ledge after the HUGE runout. Pitch 3 is necky but looks like a clean fall. Jul 18, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I've done this route twice and it is a great adventure. There was an inspiring photo of this climb in Climbing Mag some time in the early 80's.

You can approach from the east or west. It's shorter from the east but rougher. You might think a pinnacle would have a pointy summit, but the summit is covered by very large potholes which may be filled by water, or even ice if you climb it in January. Even the descent is fun (figuring it out). Adventure climbing at its best. The runouts aren't too scary, go for it! Feb 6, 2006