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Routes in The Wasteland

Fire Sermon, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wasteland, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 5,722 ft
GPS: 31.945, -109.969 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,391 total, 109/month
Shared By: Mike on May 17, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

A 600' semi-detached pinnacle between Entrance Dome and Out-of-Towners dome in the East Stronghold.

Getting There

While driving into the East Stronghold, turn right on a dirt road just after entering the National Forest boundary, directly after a cattleguard. There will also be a sign (unrelated to The Wasteland) on the right side of the road at the turn-off. Take the dirt road for about 100 yds or so and take the obvious left turn for a very short ways to the parking area. If you miss this last left turn, the dirt road will take you to Batline Dome before ending. Once at the trailhead, take the somewhat braided trails roughly north up a gentle drainage until the trails converge somewhat and head roughly west up a steeper drainage. Follow this just past Entrance dome until a steep drainage enters from the right (roughly north) and scramble up this drainage to the base of The Wasteland.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Wasteland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Wasteland
Trad 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Fire Sermon
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Wasteland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
The Fire Sermon 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 4 pitches
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Did The Wasteland today and had SO much fun. Great route! However, we did the alternative (north) descent and one rope got hopelessly stuck on the last rappel. If anybody gets to it before I do, I'm happy to pick it up from you and provide due compensation (Of course you can keep it if you so choose, I did abandon it...). It's a 8 mm gray Edelrid half rope.

At the same time, we found a double length BD dyneema; if it's yours, PM me, I won't use it.

Thanks! Feb 17, 2014
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
That climb is called "the fire sermon." Nov 14, 2011
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
i was also wondering about the bolted route left of the wasteland, the bolts looked great and it seemed 5.9ish on the 1.5 pitches of it i did Nov 14, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Nice job Geir. Angel and I took some clippers up a couple months back and trimmed back quite a bit of agave points and other thorn - laden things that had taken over the path. It still could use tidying up in a few spots though. Feb 3, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
If you would like a topo just PM me.

I put together an approach map here:

toofasttopos.com/googleeart… Feb 2, 2011
DaveF Farkas
Durango, CO
DaveF Farkas   Durango, CO
Thanks for the beta. We ended up heading straight up the face after the chimney pitch of Wasteland. I saw the bolts and figured it may be fun. It ended up being a really good time. I loved the exposure. Dec 31, 2010
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
DaveF, I think the first bolted line to the right of the start of Wasteland is called Teenage Wasteland. I think its supposed to be 10a, but not really sure. Dec 26, 2010
DaveF Farkas
Durango, CO
DaveF Farkas   Durango, CO
Went up to climb The Wasteland and ended up climbing the bolted line up the left from the "Chimney" section. Any ideas out there on a name and grade? Super fun and I mean Super!!!! Great face climbing, airy, and warm. Dec 23, 2010
First time on the route for us, I did look to continue but had to consider I was out about 160ft on a 60m and the last 50ft or so had been runnout. I had heard from other climbing partners that there was some "interesting" moves at the start of the second. I quickly looked that way and only saw small gravely ledges with slim hands and no visiable pro in site. Added asking my second to cross paths with yellow jackets, fight/ no chance for flight mode kicked in. Gotta say it's a great looking route, can't wait to try again. Sep 25, 2010
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Thanks for the heads up and glad to hear you both made it down safe. Bummer to hear they moved into that belay spot. In hindsight, how well do you think it may have worked to belay from around the corner on the way up to 2nd anchor ledge? Sep 20, 2010
Sept 11 2010 I reached the top of pitch 1 about 9am, full sun and already warm on the rock. After setting 3 pieces in the crack on the left side of the ledge I had just started to tie the anchor figure 8 when yellow jackets began emerging from a hole holding my top piece, a nice #10 stopper. Long story..I managed to kill 6 including the 4 that stung me before my partner climbed up to a tree a little higher up and belayed me up. They followed us up to the tree, we bailed and they followed us down. Planning on returning next month, great looking route!
Sep 16, 2010
BenJamN
Washington State
BenJamN   Washington State
Whats the lowdown on all the new bolted lines around the wasteland route??? Also this crag should be called "Squid Dome" as the cliff looks much like the mollusk when viewed from the drainage... Feb 3, 2010

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