Avg: 3.7 from 170 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1995|
|Page Views:||28,880 total · 175/month|
|Shared By:||Jordan Katz on Dec 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
P1: Start on the slab under the boulder to a small ledge and out to the left to a sickle shape feature and up steep face climbing on alligator skin to a two-bolt belay (rap anchors). Very well bolted. 5.10a, 150'.
P2: Climb the face up and right to a single bolt. You will see a two-bolt belay above and left of this (for Poetry in Motion), but this is NOT where you are heading. Continue right to the buttress and climb the line of bolts. The traverse right to the arete is run-out and the single bolt is piss-poor but the climbing is easy. Once on the arete, the route is well-bolted. Belay off two rap anchors in a kind of alcove. 5.8R, 150'.
P3: Just above the belay, follow the bolted seam up and to the right. A 3/4" cam is necessary here. Exposed! 5.10a, 130'.
P4: Up the steep slab past two bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side.
P5: Move the belay to the right side (for Days of Future Passed) and then traverse right around the corner and up a steep slab, following bolts to the top. 5.8+, 100'.
Descent: 3 rappels. Complicated. Move east and slightly south below the summit area to a small pine tree with rap slings. Rap 150' (2 ropes) to a set of bolts. Another 2-rope rappel into a dark chimney. Scramble north along the chimney to a hole by a chockstone, squeeze through the hole onto a ledge. Rap off a slings around a wedged chockstone to the ground on the NE side of the pinnacle.
For approach from the west side of the Stronghold, see my comments for the approach to Rockfellow formation.