Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1995
Page Views: 28,880 total · 175/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on Dec 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Read this Access Note! Details

Description

An amazing, if unlikely line up the SSW side of the End Pinnacle, around the corner from Days of Future Passed. Great, mostly well-protected and airy climbing with a little bit of everything. The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.

P1: Start on the slab under the boulder to a small ledge and out to the left to a sickle shape feature and up steep face climbing on alligator skin to a two-bolt belay (rap anchors). Very well bolted. 5.10a, 150'.

P2: Climb the face up and right to a single bolt. You will see a two-bolt belay above and left of this (for Poetry in Motion), but this is NOT where you are heading. Continue right to the buttress and climb the line of bolts. The traverse right to the arete is run-out and the single bolt is piss-poor but the climbing is easy. Once on the arete, the route is well-bolted. Belay off two rap anchors in a kind of alcove. 5.8R, 150'.

P3: Just above the belay, follow the bolted seam up and to the right. A 3/4" cam is necessary here. Exposed! 5.10a, 130'.

P4: Up the steep slab past two bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side.

P5: Move the belay to the right side (for Days of Future Passed) and then traverse right around the corner and up a steep slab, following bolts to the top. 5.8+, 100'.

Descent: 3 rappels. Complicated. Move east and slightly south below the summit area to a small pine tree with rap slings. Rap 150' (2 ropes) to a set of bolts. Another 2-rope rappel into a dark chimney. Scramble north along the chimney to a hole by a chockstone, squeeze through the hole onto a ledge. Rap off a slings around a wedged chockstone to the ground on the NE side of the pinnacle.

Location

The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle.
For approach from the west side of the Stronghold, see my comments for the approach to Rockfellow formation.

Protection

2 ropes, 15-20 quickdraws, wires, TCUs, small to med cams, slings

Photos