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Routes in End Pinnacle

Be All, End All T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cap'm Pissgums T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Days of Future Passed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jimmywacky T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magnus Veritas T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poetry in Motion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Son of Gums T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncarved Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to the Machine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1995
Page Views: 23,389 total, 176/month
Shared By: Jordan K on Dec 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

An amazing, if unlikely line up the SSW side of the End Pinnacle, around the corner from Days of Future Passed. Great, mostly well-protected and airy climbing with a little bit of everything. The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.

P1: Start on the slab under the boulder to a small ledge and out to the left to a sickle shape feature and up steep face climbing on alligator skin to a two-bolt belay (rap anchors). Very well bolted. 5.10a, 150'.

P2: Climb the face up and right to a single bolt. You will see a two-bolt belay above and left of this (for Poetry in Motion), but this is NOT where you are heading. Continue right to the buttress and climb the line of bolts. The traverse right to the arete is run-out and the single bolt is piss-poor but the climbing is easy. Once on the arete, the route is well-bolted. Belay off two rap anchors in a kind of alcove. 5.8R, 150'.

P3: Just above the belay, follow the bolted seam up and to the right. A 3/4" cam is necessary here. Exposed! 5.10a, 130'.

P4: Up the steep slab past two bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side.

P5: Move the belay to the right side (for Days of Future Passed) and then traverse right around the corner and up a steep slab, following bolts to the top. 5.8+, 100'.

Descent: 3 rappels. Complicated. Move east and slightly south below the summit area to a small pine tree with rap slings. Rap 150' (2 ropes) to a set of bolts. Another 2-rope rappel into a dark chimney. Scramble north along the chimney to a hole by a chockstone, squeeze through the hole onto a ledge. Rap off a slings around a wedged chockstone to the ground on the NE side of the pinnacle.

Location

The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle.
For approach from the west side of the Stronghold, see my comments for the approach to Rockfellow formation.

Protection

2 ropes, 15-20 quickdraws, wires, TCUs, small to med cams, slings
walmongr
Gilbert AZ
 
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
 
Fun Route!! Pitch 2 is a little spicy but easy from the first to the second bolt their is a plate you can sling our slot a nut if you must.. Loved Pitch 3 its the hero pitch that should be much harder then it is! Go get on it.. Decent info we Rapped single rope back to the ledge off the top (60M rope). The Rest were double rope raps,we rapped down and climbers right. its about 130 feet to the anchors on Magnus Veritas then 2 more raps straight down Magnus Veritas. Super easy and deposits you right on the other side of the boulder you started under 4 raps total from the top. Jan 13, 2017
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Daniel Siegel, sounds like you climbed the last pitch of Days of Future Passed. Endgame finishes to the right. See Toofast Topos' free topo or pick up the guidebook for more information. Both finishes are about the same grade but as you noted, the Days Of Future Past finish is far spicier. Feb 14, 2016
Daniel Siegel
Portola, CA
 
Daniel Siegel   Portola, CA
 
We did this climb as a party of three last week as a stop between Hueco and Bishop. What an amazing and "improbable" line. We started in shade at around noon (one party in front of us) and we were quickly in the sun. It was HOT. In order to enjoy this climb and not be puckered the whole time you must know how to slab climb. You must be able to climb 5.8 without falling. We brought a .75 C4 and a rack of nuts. None of which got placed. I did not find it necessary. I felt the grade of this route to be spot on for granite. Climbing magazine once listed this as a "Non-Traditional Long Sport Route". End Game is not a sport route. Bolted: Yes. Sport route: No. There is plenty of "no fall" territory, albeit on easier ground. The cruxes are all well protected.

P1: Stout 5.10 slab moves gain a weird easy flake. Then pumpy 5.10 for a few bolts to an easy roof pull.
P2: Easy easy run out to 5.6-5.8 jug hauling.
P3: The money. "Every climbers dream: exposed climbing on jugs"-my partner that lead the pitch. Crux seemed to be moving off the belay. Probably would have been easier if it was baking in the sun making the small holds feel slimy.
P4: Slabby dish climbing. Short but sweet.
P5: From the nice ledge head straight up from the anchors, possibly using the good flake like feature to the right to get started. 2 bolts exactly where you want them. Bring your balls.

We descended Jimmywacky with 3 double rope (1 60 and 1 70m) raps. The last one just made it. It helped to simu rap to stretch the rope. This brought us just around the corner from our packs and seemed like a much quicker option than the descent listed.
Feb 14, 2016
Ryan Arnold
  5.10 PG13
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10 PG13
I was warned that southern Arizona is sandbagged relative to Utah and Nevada. I did indeed find this to be the case. For me, pitch one: 10b slab to 10b sustained face climbing to runout 5.7. Pitch two: very runout 5.6. Pitch three: Hard and tricky 10b to runout 5.8. Could not find the cam placement in that flaring crack, so I went 25-30 feet from bolt to anchor. Pitch four: 5.9- to runout 5.6. Pitch five: 5.8. Feb 23, 2015
Jimbo  
Come on Chris let's here about the mini epic. No holding back. Oct 22, 2014
Had a mini epic and needed to rap off the first pitch of endgame. We left the rope hanging and plan on going back next weekend to get it-10/26/14. If you were on it today or will be this week and pull the rope can you please call me.

Thank you,

Chris 520-548-6652 Oct 19, 2014
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Like others have said, an excellent route.

Regarding the gear thing, I thought the only piece I was really happy to have was a .75 (green) camalot on pitch 3. I placed 2 nuts mainly because I could, but the runout sections are very easy on pitches 1 and 2. Of course YMMV, but consider a green camalot for P3 if 5.10 is near your limit. Nov 7, 2013
RyanJames  
 
This is a sport route that has absolutely no need for any gear other than quickdraws. All runouts are on super easy terrain. Great route though. Great exposure and climbing on pitch 3! Nov 20, 2012
Spiro  
Is it possible to do the first three pitchs and then rap? Nov 19, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
It is possible to rap back down to your packs with two ropes. We had a 63M static & a 70M.

Make 2 two single rope raps from the summit to the P3 belay. You might be able to do these with a 60M. We used a 70M, with low potential for stuck ropes. Then make two double rope raps using the Jimmywacky P1 anchors. (50M and 61M) There are potential rope issues, so think about how you pull your ropes and scope out the chicken heads on the way down!

I only placed a #0.75, #1, and a large offset nut on P2. Nov 18, 2012
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a/b
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a/b
Just did this beauty for the first time-thought it was so fun. And can confirm exactly what Clay says above about rapping off the back with a 70m as described. Look forward to doing this one again! Nov 1, 2011
It may be helpful to some to know that the rappels for Endgame (and End Pinnacle in general), can be done with one 70 m rope.

My partner and I had heard it could be done, but we took 2 ropes to the base anyways. Once there, we were told by 2 guys who had done Endgame recently that one 70 m rope would work, and it did. I'm guessing the 2 intermediate anchors that we had to use (both 2 rap bolts) are relatively new.


If you want to rap off End Pinnacle with one 70 m rope, this may help:
(1)Rap off the 2 bolt anchor near the pine tree on the summit. As you drop onto the vertical face, start looking down and to your left for a set of rap bolts just outside small chimney
(2)Rap down and right to an anchor that is still above the large chimney.
(3)Rap down into large chimney until you get to an anchor that will be on the south side of the chimney (your left). These are easy to miss if you're not looking for them.
(4)Rap from this anchor down the chimney towards the "hole")
(5)Make one move up and scramble out hole to last rappel anchor and rap from here. At the bottom of this rappel, swing over to your left to get to solid rock you can stand on. Easy downclimb from here.

It is a trade off for sure. We only had one rope climbing up, which of course was nice, but had to do 5 rappels, rather than 3. Dec 11, 2010
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.10a
Climbed this yesterday. WONDERFUL!!!!! If you are looking to lighten up on the rack I suggest just draws and no gear. We carried the suggested rack and placed one nut on the entire climb and then saw that there was a bolt not too far away.

Oct 31, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Justin-

Try the upper variation to Endgame off its third pitch. In my opinion it's the best pitch on the wall. Very exposed and stellar climbing! Nov 23, 2009
Justin York
Phoenix, AZ
 
Justin York   Phoenix, AZ
 
Linked engame and welcome to the machine (WTTM) for a 4 star route that, IMHO, is better than the individual routes by themselves. P1&2 of endgame, P3&4 of WTTM, finish on P5 of endgame. Awesome! Nov 23, 2009
Dustin Urban  
 
Killer route. Really fun. Make sure to bring enough draws. The first pitch had 15 to 18 of em i think. We used 2 pieces of pro all day, our rack was excessive- you could easily just bring quick draws and runners. Nov 20, 2009
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b PG13
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b PG13
P1: Stay left.
P2: Runout 5.8 climbing
P3: Awesome. Stay Low
P4: Climbed in November. Was in the shade until P4.
P5: More difficult than 5.8+ when in the sun. Nov 13, 2009
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I did this route with Miles "bigwall" Kunkel. "Bigwall" because this is the longest route he's ever done. He made a mockery of it, not only skipping the gear on pitch 3, but skipping most of the bolts on both pitches 1 and 3.

Me: Why did you skip all those bolts ?

Miles: Didn't see 'em. (said with a sly half-smile)

! Jan 14, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
I checked out the variations the other day, and they are a lot of fun. The upper variation makes for a stellar way to do pitches 3&4 of Endgame. Nov 30, 2008
Two variations to this route that were chopped years ago have been rebolted. The bolts were beefy Fixe hangers so if you want to stay on the original route don't use them.

Variation 1 5.11+: About 5 or 6 bolts up from the start of the climb along the hand traverse, a line of bolts go straight up a very blank section of face to the first belay of Welcome to the Machine.

Variation 2 5.10+: On the third pitch as the climbing begins to ease up is a shallow dihedral that heads up the steep headwall. Climb this until possible to finish on Welcome to the Machine. The 20 feet of 5.7 is a tad less exciting if you bring a couple of hand sized cams to plug in at the top of Welcome... or if you want a mental challenge move right at the last bolt and finish on Great Gig In The Sky which is about 5.7 to the ledge also. Nov 2, 2008
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
The topos for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/

Note that this topo is for the west face of end pinnacle. After the third pitch, Endgame continues on the southwest face. For this reason, two topos need to be downloaded. Oct 16, 2008
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
P4 is ~5.8 and has 5 bolts, not two, plus an optional 6th near the lip of the ledge that could serve as a directional before you traverse to the anchor on the right side of the ledge.
And then there's yet another bolt on the ledge farther left, and, um, yeah, well, lots of bolts all over this dome. Sep 22, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
There are bolts at every rap station now. Sep 3, 2008
Jimbo  
The reason to do the original finish to is exactly because it is the original finish. If you've climbed the rest of the route the 5.8 R bit on the last pitch should not be that much of a challenge!! Mar 31, 2007
ttriche
Altadena, CA
 
ttriche   Altadena, CA
 
One linkup that has been suggested (and looked like a lot of fun) is, instead of busting out right on pitch three, keep following the bolts for Welcome to the Machine (straight up the groove from the alcove), then rejoin Endgame after the fourth pitch of that route. Also, people who had done both the original Days of Future Passed finish and also the Endgame finish to that route unanimously recommended the latter. The 5.8R climbing on Days was, according to them, not worth the additional risk and not as much fun as the last Endgame pitch. Dec 26, 2006