|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tank Evans on Aug 14, 2015|
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|Comments on The Honeymoon is Over||Add Comment|
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By j wharton
Aug 15, 2016
The belays have changed! See details below:
Eric Doub did an incredible job envisioning and establishing this route, and Tommy's FA style is remarkable. Someone is going to have to flash, or onsight the route to better his effort! Given the traffic it's received recently and the way it's cleaning up, I think this route is one of, if not the best, hard alpine rock route in the lower 48.
However, last year after redpointing the route, I felt several of the belays were in strange spots and needed to be moved, especially the hanging belay atop the first 5.13a pitch, which besides being extremely uncomfortable, really wasn't at a legitimate stance.
After getting the approval of other people that have redpointed the route, this season I added a two bolt anchor at a no-hands stance halfway into the second 5.13 pitch. (Look for a crafty heel-toe to drop your hands.) With this new anchor, I re-redpointed the route as three longer 5.13 pitches, instead of four shorter ones.
The route is much more pleasant now for both leader and follower, and the belay points feel more natural. It doesn't change the grade (perhaps it's ever so slightly harder), and you can easily do the route as it was first done if you choose.
The pitches are now slightly different than Joe's description:
From a belay in the Eroica corner, climb all the way through the "ultra-technical corner" to the new two bolt anchor, located just after a small rightward traverse. 35 meters 13c-ish.
Climb layback jugs off the anchor, to a tricky boulder problem on tiny holds. Skip another two bolt anchor (also not really a no-hands), and continue past the next two bouldery sections, all the way to a fixed gear anchor at Table Ledge. 30 meters 13b-ish.
Continue as Joe describes, although you no longer need to downclimb to begin the final 13a pitch.
By Tank Evans
Aug 15, 2016
|Fantastic! This is a far better pitch breakdown. Additionally, it eliminates the danger of cratering on your belayer on the second 5.13 pitch as it was previously, which as I remember it was a real possibility depending on how crafty you are with thin gear.|