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Pentapitch Area
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Dike from Hell T 
Endless Torment T 
Flashdance T,TR 
Ginseng T 
Jackalope  T 
Japanese Terraces T 
Lesbian Seagulls S 
Littlefoot T 
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 
Neuromancer S 
Nubbins Direct T 
Nubbins to Nowhere T 
Pearls Before Swine S 
Pentapass T 
Pentapitch T 
Pudgy Gumbies T 
Sasquatch T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963
Page Views: 38,518
Submitted By: Mike Kempt on Sep 27, 2001

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first pitch at night fall. top rope with head lam...

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  • Description 

    A classic Little Cottonwood multi pitch-climb.

    Features fun crack- and face-climbing on quality granite. The second plus third and the fourth plus fifth pitches can be easily run together into two pitches if you keep rope drag down with use of long runners.

    Descend by numerous rap stations available on right side of route (adjacent to Sasquatch). All raps can be done with a single 50 meter rope.


    Standard rack up to #3 camalot. Lots of long runners to reduce rope drag helpful. Takes stoppers well. Some anchors are set up off trees, others have chains.

    Photos of Pentapitch Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: first pitch.
    first pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Maura Hahnenberger on the final, very nice pitch o...
    Maura Hahnenberger on the final, very nice pitch o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: das craigers crusin past the crux!
    das craigers crusin past the crux!
    Rock Climbing Photo: cruisin pitch 1
    cruisin pitch 1
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crux- First Pitch
    Crux- First Pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting Started, Pitch 1
    Getting Started, Pitch 1
    Rock Climbing Photo: From the belay anchors at the start of pitch 5 of ...
    BETA PHOTO: From the belay anchors at the start of pitch 5 of ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: last pitch
    last pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading the thin upper section of Pentapitch
    Me leading the thin upper section of Pentapitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: On Pitch 1, before the T-Storms rolled in.
    On Pitch 1, before the T-Storms rolled in.
    Rock Climbing Photo: spicey
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia Brown waiting for me to warm my fingers and...
    Tricia Brown waiting for me to warm my fingers and...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lee just above the crux on the last pitch. There i...
    Lee just above the crux on the last pitch. There i...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Jensen at the top of the penultimate pitch.
    Lee Jensen at the top of the penultimate pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the 4th pitch of Pentapitch.
    Starting the 4th pitch of Pentapitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: J-Sexy Pika leading the action off the ground!
    J-Sexy Pika leading the action off the ground!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Linking last 2 pitches..the initial step left into...
    Linking last 2 pitches..the initial step left into...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The first piece is the start of the crack portion ...
    The first piece is the start of the crack portion ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Travis Pecha on the upper reaches of Pentapitch
    Travis Pecha on the upper reaches of Pentapitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pentapitch Area
    BETA PHOTO: Pentapitch Area
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tobin on the 1st pitch.
    Tobin on the 1st pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Pentapitch
    BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Pentapitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: looking down from the anchors at the top of pitch ...
    looking down from the anchors at the top of pitch ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: perfect place to put a nut in. even if it doesn't ...
    perfect place to put a nut in. even if it doesn't ...

    Show All 24 Photos

    Only the first 24 are shown above.

    Comments on Pentapitch Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 21, 2017
    By Jonathan Schumacher
    From: Sandy, UT
    Oct 2, 2002

    I love this climb! Pitch 1 follows a low-angle dihedral, over a tree stump, and follows 2 discontinuous cracks (crux protected by a pin) to the belay ledge. There are a bomber set of anchors. I'm not sure about pitch 2, because about 15 feet up the cool hand crack, I traversed to a crack right of Pentapitch and followed it up and left, around a roof, and belayed at a tree. One more short, low-angle dihedral takes you to the short hike to the final 2 pitches. The next pitch is a left-angling ramp that takes killer pro and has some cool exposure, where there are 2 bolts to use as anchors. The final pitch is the crux and is killer! From the anchors of p4, you traverse a thin face left about 10 feet to th crack and clip a pin. The next 30-40 feet are fingers over a slight bulge. The pitch is protected by small cams and nuts. The exposure to your left is wild! Twoards the top the guidebook said there was a bolt, but I didn't see it. I opted to go slightly left and then traverse right to the anchors. This climb is phenomenal! Rap from the anchors on p5 and we rapped off the climb near the top of Sasquatch.Enjoy!
    By Peter Gram
    From: Cupertino, CA
    May 6, 2004
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    There is a bolt on the last pitch. It looks brand new, so it has probably been replaced since the comment by Jonathan. Pitch 5 climbs a thin finger crack, then works slightly right up a flake. On top of this flake is where the bolt is. The climb finishes up with a slight angling to the left.
    By Mark Michaels
    From: Draper, UT
    May 20, 2004
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Recently repeated this climb....and had so much fun! What a beautiful spot....away from the crowds....views of the Pawn....sound of water and birds....really peaceful, not always the case at the Gate!

    Regarding the last pitch....yes, it's a bit thin and spicy without the pin. But I wiggled in 2 small stoppers where the pin would be, and equalized them....somewhat awkward, but probably as strong as an old fixed pin!One more move and you get nice microcams.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 8, 2004

    Been on my list for a while and I'm stoked I finally did it. First and last pitch are the best. I was worried reading all the talk about the yanked pin on the last pitch but... don't think it needed to be there. It was fine. After the bolt I wasn't sure if I should follow that seam up right to an undercling looking flake or just angle left. I angled left almost to the ledge, thought it was too easy and I must be chickening out so I climbed bach down to the bolt and tried right. That seemed more difficult than 5.8! Anyone know which way u go?
    By Nathan Fisher
    Jul 4, 2005
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Great line. 3rd pitch really hurts the climb and the scramble to the 4th/5th pitch is doesn't help. I was feeling it on that pin-less move on the 5th pitch, but if you just focus and remember that it's only 5.8...Whether you go right or left after the bolt on P5, go left officially. I also went right, by accident, and that is harder than 5.8 and I had run out of the right size gear to place.

    To prevent people cussing me out, I gave it 3 stars, but IMHO it is barely 3 stars due to the preceding negative factors.

    Oh what the hell... 2 Stars.
    By Tea
    Mar 27, 2006

    run pitches 4 and 5 together for max value on this wonderful LCC classic. Lets keep the pins out and, and the flavor up!
    By kBobby Hanson
    From: Spokane, WA
    Jul 29, 2006

    With a bit of simul at the beginning (or a 70m), you can even do this in two pitches. "Bipitch"
    By Rob C.
    From: Freeport, ME
    Oct 6, 2006

    The last 2 pitches are amazing! My partner called these "slabby and insecure". Damn right, a serious lead for sure.
    By GhaMby Eagan
    From: Heaven
    Jan 23, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    follow the topo, go left at the bolt on the last pitch. (and clip the bolt).
    By Ryan Brough
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Jun 15, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Ruckman guide says it all, "Must-do climb." The first pitch alone is the most aesthetic 5.6 I've ever climbed. The last two pitches were fabulous. Are the second and third pitches so awful that you forget how wonderful the rest of the climbing is? I still haven't climbed them. Besides, you can skip those two pitches by climbing Sasquatch, which is probably the best 5.9 in the canyon!

    Anyhow, if you're in a hurry to get down, don't mind downclimbing and you happen to have a 70 meter rope, you can simul-rappel from the top anchor to a ledge just above a tree about 20 feet above the huge ledge between the third and fourth pitches. Downclimb the handcrack past the tree to the huge ledge. From here, you can downclimb the gully to the west and cool off in the Coalpit stream.
    By icsteveoh
    From: salt lake city, UT
    Nov 17, 2007
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    With a 60 meter rope I like to climb this as 3 pitches.

    "pitch 1" is to the chains left of the tree.
    From there "pitch 2" can go to the big ledge/belay spot for "pitch 3", which is the sweet and heady finger crack.
    By Stymingersfink
    Dec 24, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    P-pitch. One of the most enjoyable areas to climb in LCC in the summer, bar none.

    The pins have all been gone for some time now, several summers ago someone cut down the remains of a small shrub on P1... things change sometimes. Doesn't make it any less fun now, does it?

    Every summer it's one of the routes I look forward to soloing (except P5!!) or taking n00bish friends up. There are some great variations to this climb... The P1 (sling the tree long, traverse right 25')--->Sasquatch-->Japanese Terraces covers pretty much all the more popular permutations, combining three routes in one for a nice afternoon of cruiser climbing. Time it right, and you should have shade most of the day.

    For the record on P5: Clip the bolt, follow the under-cling flake out right. Anything less and you're not getting full-value... the only one you're cheating is YOURSELF! ;)
    By Tosh Peters
    From: Park City, UT
    Jun 26, 2008

    like most people have said, im really glad i finally got on this thing. I did the first pitch then climbed jappenese terraces to the big ledge. Then I linked the last 2 pitches together and it was amazing. the moves to the crack from the chains were a definite crux and the finger crack was awsome with some of the best locks ive ever gotten. I clipped the bolt at the top and went right as i had forgotten the topo and felt going left was somewhat of a cop out on the last 10 feet of climbing, it didnt feel much harder then the moves into the final crack and added to the route alot. classic.
    By justo
    From: slc
    Jul 28, 2008

    beware of the chocolate eating squirrels at the bottom. they opened my pack and took my snickers!
    By Michael MacFadden
    Sep 14, 2008

    Yes, squirrels managed to open my pack, which was hanging from a tree, take a clif bar and then zip the pack back up. Crafty those squirrels... .
    By kyclimber
    Jul 29, 2009

    I tried to lead this route but backed off the last pitch. Does anyone have some beta for how to protect the hard moves just after the belay ledge?
    By Perin Blanchard
    From: Orem, UT
    Jul 29, 2009

    It's been a while, but I recall placing a #5 or #6 Black Diamond stopper in the thin crack to the left of the belay. It was mildly strenuous to place, as I remember.
    By icsteveoh
    From: salt lake city, UT
    Aug 2, 2009
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    what do you mean belay ledge? like the huge platform at the top or the 2 chains half way up? A blue tcu fits in that crack swell below the small dead tree stump root thing. after clipping those chains whats there to worry about?
    By Matt Brodhead
    From: Logan, UT
    Sep 26, 2010

    This is a great climb. Take a 6 pack of beer, because you'll need it after you lead the last pitch!
    By steven sadler
    From: SLC, UT
    Jun 14, 2011

    Did this climb today and the best approach is to drive past gate B a little ways and park where a small dirt road goes down toward the river. Go around the old rusted gate and follow the road pretty much directly toward the river and there is a nice bridge. don't take the first small trail that cuts off the road that leads to a mountain bike trail. cross the bridge then hike down canyon a little ways.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Jul 4, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    After the 1st pitch climb Sasquatch to make this a higher quality outing. The traverse at the start of the last pitch looks improbable at 5.8, but trust those feet!
    By Darshan
    Aug 12, 2011

    Ok. Here is a good description for the approach.
    Park at the pull off a little after Gate B. Hike back to the gate. Follow the trail and cross the stream over the bridge. Turn right after crossing the bridge and keep hiking on the wide trail. Keep your eyes open for 2 large pine trees on your right. As soon as you see them look to your left and find a small not so obvious trail. Take this and you will be hiking away from the stream. This is a pleasant little off shoot. The trail should lead you to a boulder field. Once you start hopping the sweet boulders, try to keep moving towards your right. This should bring you 60-70 feet from the base of the climb. As you are done with boulder field you will be at the base of the climb.

    And take your trash with you when you leave the place.
    By DrApnea
    From: Wenatchee, WA
    Aug 25, 2011

    Climbed it today. The crux for me was avoiding a bat in a hand jam on P1. It looked mean while screaming and showing its teeth to me. Otherwise great route especially with the sasquatch pitch mixed in.
    By Joel R. Andersen
    From: SLC, Utah
    Aug 27, 2011

    I lost some red Five Ten Moccasym climbing shoes at the bottom of the rout. They are new and still hall have the print on the bottom. If anyone found them and feels kind enough to turn them in id greatly appreciate it.
    By rging
    From: Salt Lake City, Ut
    Jun 24, 2012
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Was rockin' along and hit a super greasy spot about 150 feet up 10 feet short of a slung tree and took a 25 foot whipper. Scared the hell out of the group behind us waiting there turn. It was on my mind as I did the last pitch slab but I mustered the courage and finished it out.
    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    Jul 10, 2012
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Climbed this today through the Sasquatch variation. Gear to 1 Camalot should suffice, takes a lot of smaller stuff. The 5th pitch takes a #5 BD Stopper that wants to live in the pin scar that you place it in. Don't be intimidated by the moves into the crack off the belay, just follow the edges to a huge dish of a foot and you'll be fine, look for the rust stain of the pin scar, slot the nut and pull on. The route eats up stoppers. Climbed the first pitch with only stoppers.

    Can't say much to the tune of the middle pitches, but Sasquatch is definitely an awesome and chill variation.

    Just for the public service. Also stays in the shade on hot days. Great moderate outing!

    Do it!
    By gautam
    Jul 16, 2012

    What is the access like to Pentapitch? All the information I can find says the pump station bridge washed out and the condemned alternate bridge by Lisa's falls. I see a couple of recent parties have climbed at Pentapitch--is there a new bridge up yet?
    By Alan Avedovech
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jul 26, 2012

    Drive past pump house until you see a rusty old gate and a road. Park and follow road past gate and down until you cross a bridge. Follow trail finding fresh wild raspberries until you see big pines on right and a small trail/stream on left. Follow this trail to boulder field and head right and up to the base of Pentapitch.

    Definitely do Sasquatch variation as it eliminates the not so... middle pitch. For P5, like Quitiquit said, its all there just trust those feet, slide that stopper in, and keep on climbing. Pass bolt (no need to clip there is some great TCU placements) and head right for the better line that makes you understand why shoes have sticky rubber.

    One of my favorites!
    By John Wilder
    From: Las Vegas, NV
    Aug 27, 2012
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Really good route- did this with Sasquatch as our 2nd pitch, about as classic as it gets.

    One note- Linking 4 and 5 keeps the FF2 potential down- a good idea if slab isnt your thing, as the moves off the last bolted belay are cruxy and insecure if you're not a slab climber.
    By Laine Christman
    From: Reno, NV
    Sep 5, 2012

    This climb is easily done in 2 pitches with a 70m rope and doubles of finger sizes. Take pitch one all the way to the first big ledge system and belay at a small pine tree (with 5ft of rope left). Move the belay up 30ft to base of the second slab and climb to the final set of anchors.
    By curvenut
    Apr 12, 2013

    Planning to be in SLC between April 20 and May 4 ...

    Could this route be climbed at his time of the year ?? Any snow left of the ground ??

    By Ryan Arnold
    Aug 30, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I listened to the above posts about cheating yourself if you don't go right on the final pitch after the bolt.... and found it to be very intimidating 5.8++ slab 20 feet above the bolt. Way more heads up than the step left at the start of pitch 5, which felt like no big deal.

    Has anyone ever accidentally climbed the mini-pentapitch route that's on the crag directly south of the pumphouse, instead of south-east? I went there twice. It even has a bolted slab route to the left and a river to the right. Difference is, the route chosses and ledges out after the first pitch. I was so confused until I finally found the real wall this week.
    By MountainTimmy
    Jun 17, 2014

    does anyone know the name of the offwidth that starts to the left of the fourth pitch of pentapitch and connects to the bottom of the last pitch of the coalpit connection near the large dead tree?
    By Tyler Needham
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jul 26, 2014
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Took a few big running slab whips on Pearls Before Swine before I realized the route actually goes to the time.
    By garyjutah Jones
    Oct 5, 2014

    Going right at the bolt on the final pitch is a must. In my opinion makes the pitch.
    By greyson
    From: SLC, UT
    Jun 7, 2016

    Protection beta for pitch 1: single set of nuts and about 6 or 7 draws/runners.
    By bheller
    From: SL UT
    Jun 8, 2016

    Great Beta...would a double set of nuts with 11-13 draws/runners work also?
    By greyson
    From: SLC, UT
    Jun 8, 2016

    You could safely protect all 5 (3) pitches with a double set and about 13 draws. I personally think Pentapitch takes nuts better than cams along with Sasquatch.
    Gear beta for all pitches of pentapitch. (if confident 5.9 lcc trad leader)
    singles in .1,.2,.3,.4,.5 and a #3 (camalots)
    single set of nuts 1-13 and about 10 draws/runners
    The last pitch feels more like 5.9 to me.
    By Kemper Brightman
    From: Tucson
    Jun 10, 2016

    Had the pleasure of climbing this gem of a route while visiting a friend in SLC. You LCC locals are hard men if this is a standard 5.8. It could be the fact that I had been jug hauling in Maple before-hand, but the 15ft traverse off the belay and final finger crack felt HARD.
    By James Leavy
    From: Provo, Uah
    Jun 30, 2016

    Really Fun route, and not too hard unless you aren't used to slab climbing. I'd say the safest way to do this route is to link pitches 4 & 5, that way if you fall before you finish the traverse to the crack (or before you can get gear in the crack) you don't fall directly on your belayer. It does seem odd to me that a finger crack crux, slabby or not, gets 5.8.

    Also it looks like there is an overhung hand crack around the left arete of the final pitch, does anybody know if this has a grade?
    By grog m aka Greg McKee
    Jul 2, 2016

    Simo climbed this with Andres T today in 30 minutes
    By chris
    Aug 17, 2016

    To the couple that I would like to assume took my nice sweaty broken in TC Pro's by mistake from the base of penta pitch today ( Wednesday 8/17/16) right in front of me after talking to me as a coached a young client on climbing technique, I would really appreciate if you returned them to me. I can drive to meet you or you could drop them off at IME or any number of other places. Chris Brown 215-858-3379. Sorry to put this in comments, I will remove this shortly or when I get my shoes back. Thanks
    By Jonathan DeNicola
    From: Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
    Sep 5, 2016

    On the last pitch a number 5 bd stopper and a red bd c3 made me feel super cozy once I arrived at the finger crack right. Such a great climb! 5 stars
    By Tom Oaks
    Jun 21, 2017

    I left my rack of gear at the tree at the top of the last pitch of Pentapitch,
    on 21 June.
    Please contact me if you have any info.
    Cell: 385-214.6285.

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