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a2. The Uberfall - right
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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Dick Hirschland and Bonnie Prudden (1950)
Page Views: 4,541
Submitted By: coolaid on Sep 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (108)
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Boston, winter edition Jan 2014


Layback crux above triangle block. Fun thigh/knee jams. Without big cams (#5 or #6) or very small cams (<=#1 c3), it would be difficult to protect.

Descend by walking left to Uberfall Descent


The obvious wide crack just past the Uberfall and right of Ken's Crack.


set of nuts, #5 or #6 for offwidth, some small cams (#1 c3 and smaller) prevent run-out

Photos of Boston Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Essential gear. Two would be even better.
Essential gear. Two would be even better.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bostonian awkwardness
Bostonian awkwardness
Rock Climbing Photo: Bostonian knee bar
Bostonian knee bar
Rock Climbing Photo: Guillaume Frechette looking for small gear below t...
Guillaume Frechette looking for small gear below t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Victor on Boston - great work!
Victor on Boston - great work!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of Boston
Nearing the top of Boston

Comments on Boston Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2016
By Rafiki
Oct 6, 2007

A few years back somebody fell from the offwidth section, broke a cam (yes...broke) and decked..which resulted in their death. RIP
By Michael G
Mar 16, 2009

I used a green alien and a green/blue hybrid alien to protect the first part of the crux, and a #10 BD stopper in a crack off to the left about 7 feet above that.
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Jun 22, 2009

Despite the grade, this is a difficult (off width) climb to protect. I don't recommend leading it.
By JakeL
From: Great Neck, New york
May 13, 2010

I lead this climb as my first trad lead...not a good idea really. The placements are somewhat shady, and the moves are awkward. Wouldnt recommend it as a lead.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 28, 2011

Did this climb on lead while first learning. Not a fun experience, and I wouldn't suggest it with all the other good climbs around.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2011

It was worth top roping, but would never consider it on lead without a pocket full of big bros. As already stated, worth restating, with all the other good climbing around I'd not risk injury leading this as a 5.5 climber. There's an easy walkoff and tree for a top rope. be smart.
By RM11
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

We did it on top rope on July 4th. The boys got to the top and seemed to have fun with it - I did well on the bottom part and made it higher than I thought I would (being just my second outdoor climb) but got stuck a few feet from top. Definitely looking forward to get back and get to the top! :)
By AtiMonkey91
May 17, 2012

Led this one on our way out from some of the bigger stuff. Not as much fun as I had hoped, and pretty terrifying at some points. I used a couple of really small cams to protect and wished that I had a huge bomber cam to place the whole way up.
Interestingly, after I led it three of my buddies did it on top rope and all four of us managed to do it four different ways. Some opted for lay-back, some face climbing, and some jamming. It was really neat to see the variation in technique on just 25 feet of rock.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

This climb could be very dangerous if you're not comfortable climbing above the grade and maybe have some previous off-width experience. I have seen people do the crux a handful of different ways. The crux is well-protected if you get a little creative, however the climbing down lower is more run-out.
By Tsuason
Aug 5, 2013

Just lead this sucker yesterday, but I did it on top rope last year. Since this is one of my first leads I'd say do not go on this if you're a beginner and need a little more confidence to get through the crux. It's a lot tougher than the grading would indicate. Though the good thing is there is plenty of different ways to get through the climb. Just be sure to have a full rack as there are plenty of ways of protecting the climb.
By kenr
Jul 12, 2014

At last got the whole thing with no chimney-ing, squirming, or jamming whatsoever. Pretty enjoyable and satisfying that way.
By Jay Harrison
Nov 6, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

Spoiler Alert:
One can do the "Z" Move extruding through the offset offwidth, which entails a crazy lot of effort and sketchy, strenuous gear, or...
Squirm up to the overhang, then reach up and out left on the face. Jugs, stems, and delight. Problem solved.
BITD, this was one of our standard TR setups for teaching newbies. Considering that we were not far graduated from their ranks, we were perhaps unqualified for the position. Anyway, we always squirmed, folded, and mutilated ourselves through that chimney system. On her first-ever climb, one of our acolytes listened carefully to our description of the key moves, then said, "But why not just do this?", reached out left, grabbed a hold we'd never glimpsed, stemmed her feet and suavely stood up. She flicked sprightly up the face left of the heinosity, and skipped to the top. We "experts" were astounded.
By CraigM
Apr 10, 2015

The off width section won't take gear; too flaring.
Unless, you jam something way back there at the risk of not being to retrieve and monster rope drag. Best to run it out; however if you fall, you'll probably deck.
By Ben Hoste
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 28, 2016

I actually found this quite easy to protect, especially the crux. There is a gap in gear from about 12' up to below the crux, but this section is easy to layback. But below and just below the off width crux there is a ton of pro, I placed probably 5 pieces over ten feet as the placements just got better and better as I got higher. Relatively small cams and small nuts did the trick. It's still a heady lead, but there is no need for anything larger than a #2 camelot.

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