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a2. The Uberfall - right
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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Dick Hirschland and Bonnie Prudden (1950)
Page Views: 4,920
Submitted By: coolaid on Sep 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Boston, winter edition Jan 2014


Layback crux above triangle block. Fun thigh/knee jams. Without big cams (#5 or #6) or very small cams (<=#1 c3), it would be difficult to protect.

Descend by walking left to Uberfall Descent


The obvious wide crack just past the Uberfall and right of Ken's Crack.


set of nuts, #5 or #6 for offwidth, some small cams (#1 c3 and smaller) prevent run-out

Photos of Boston Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Essential gear. Two would be even better.
Essential gear. Two would be even better.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bostonian awkwardness
Bostonian awkwardness
Rock Climbing Photo: Bostonian knee bar
Bostonian knee bar
Rock Climbing Photo: Guillaume Frechette looking for small gear below t...
Guillaume Frechette looking for small gear below t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Victor on Boston - great work!
Victor on Boston - great work!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of Boston
Nearing the top of Boston

Comments on Boston Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 24, 2017
By Rafiki
Oct 6, 2007

A few years back somebody fell from the offwidth section, broke a cam (yes...broke) and decked..which resulted in their death. RIP
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Jun 22, 2009

Despite the grade, this is a difficult (off width) climb to protect. I don't recommend leading it.
By JakeL
From: Great Neck, New york
May 13, 2010

I lead this climb as my first trad lead...not a good idea really. The placements are somewhat shady, and the moves are awkward. Wouldnt recommend it as a lead.
By RM11
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

We did it on top rope on July 4th. The boys got to the top and seemed to have fun with it - I did well on the bottom part and made it higher than I thought I would (being just my second outdoor climb) but got stuck a few feet from top. Definitely looking forward to get back and get to the top! :)
By AtiMonkey91
May 17, 2012

Led this one on our way out from some of the bigger stuff. Not as much fun as I had hoped, and pretty terrifying at some points. I used a couple of really small cams to protect and wished that I had a huge bomber cam to place the whole way up.
Interestingly, after I led it three of my buddies did it on top rope and all four of us managed to do it four different ways. Some opted for lay-back, some face climbing, and some jamming. It was really neat to see the variation in technique on just 25 feet of rock.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

This climb could be very dangerous if you're not comfortable climbing above the grade and maybe have some previous off-width experience. I have seen people do the crux a handful of different ways. The crux is well-protected if you get a little creative, however the climbing down lower is more run-out.
By kenr
Jul 12, 2014

At last got the whole thing with no chimney-ing, squirming, or jamming whatsoever. Pretty enjoyable and satisfying that way.
By Jay Harrison
Nov 6, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

Spoiler Alert:
One can do the "Z" Move extruding through the offset offwidth, which entails a crazy lot of effort and sketchy, strenuous gear, or...

BITD, this was one of our standard TR setups for teaching newbies. Considering that we were not far graduated from their ranks, we were perhaps unqualified for the position. Anyway, we always squirmed, folded, and mutilated ourselves through that chimney system. On her first-ever climb, one of our acolytes listened carefully to our description of the key moves, then said, "But why not just do this?", reached out left, grabbed a hold we'd never glimpsed, stemmed her feet and suavely stood up. She flicked sprightly up the face left of the heinosity, and skipped to the top. We "experts" were astounded.
By Ben Hoste
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 28, 2016

I actually found this quite easy to protect, especially the crux. There is a gap in gear from about 12' up to below the crux, but this section is easy to layback. But below and just below the off width crux there is a ton of pro, I placed probably 5 pieces over ten feet as the placements just got better and better as I got higher. Relatively small cams and small nuts did the trick. It's still a heady lead, but there is no need for anything larger than a #2 camelot.
By Mark Berenblum
May 22, 2017

I'll echo others and say definitely not recommended as a lead unless you're geared up to protect the offwidth with a #5 or #6. Without big gear, the run-out between the first and second piece of protection puts you at risk of a ground fall, though the climbing is easy in this section and you're not likely to fall. There are a few obvious pin scars half-way up the off-width section that you may be able to protect with a very small cam, but the placement wouldn't inspire much confidence. If you must lead it without big cams, make sure to place gear at the top of the triangle as this is the last good piece for a while.
By freebodydiagram
From: Somerville MA
Jul 10, 2017

I feel like I am taking crazy pills. It's as though we've all forgotten about the invention of small cams. plenty of gear. don't bother with anything larger than a #2 camalot.
By LB Edwards
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 24, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

A stiff 5.5. Maybe even 5.5+ for those not accustomed to crack climbing. Plenty of small cracks and pockets for smaller gear. Had a solid #2 placement for the start, a #11 BD hex before the triangle block, a red tricam under the roof and a #1 cam near the top for the end. After figuring out the cruxes would definitely want to try this again. Maybe with bigger cams to get some use with those but certainly not a necessary piece of pro to do this.

Definitely not for a beginner trad leader but a somewhat experienced one to a well experienced trad climber.

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