Aug 9, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Oh man, what a way to finish the day
Zaven and I were feeling good after just finishing east wall with confidence and thought this would be a good route to break into 5.8. We had been doing 5.7 all summer and we're feeling good so why not. It was the last route of the day and we were running low on food. We started the route feeling a little dehydrated and hungry, a bad omen.
I lead the first pitch, and generally felt pretty good. There was some route finding for the anchor as the piton/bolt listed in the super topo were missing, but otherwise a smooth pitch.
Zaven flys up on TR and gets to the belay ready to lead the second pitch. I send him off, and he cruzes up to the "5.8 boulder problem". He does a great job zipping it up, but struggles to figure out the beta. He ends up pumping out and taking. After 3 times he gets past it but realizes he is really low on gear before the two 5.8 bulges. He builds and anchor and I come up. I end up falling on the boulder problem but get it on the third go. Unpersuaded, we decide to swing leads. I was pretty excited about as I really wanted to try my hand at these 5.8 cruxes. I imagined they'd be just as easy as Harley Daley which i had sent in may, so #SendIt. Boy was i mistake. I head off some easy climbing to the base of the buldge. I wasn't feeling a amazing, but I felt determined. I place what I thought was a bomber .3 and head up for the crux. I end up faffing with some shitting fingers but get a stance i can throw my foot up. As I push up on my foot, before I know it my hands are slipping and I yell "falling". Expecting a small fall on the .3 i was unworried, but then it feels like I'm falling for eternity. When I finally come to a stop i find myself 15ft under Zaven after having taken a 30ft wiper on the Jesus piece. I had tumbled and landed pretty hard on my back but overall felt ok. My .3 blew and I just felt embarrassed. Not even from falling, but because my "bomber" piece was ass. I hang out for a sec, ...
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