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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginger Bread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,724 total, 36/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jan 12, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

On the far left of the west side, climb an easy arete/ridge to the summit.

Mostly class 4 scrambling with a few technical sections at the start and near the top of pitch 1. Seemed a bit stiff for 5.6. The final ridge traverse is cool but no harder than class 4.

Protection

Pro to 3".

From the top anchor one can (having long enough rope) rappel to any anchor and TR any Upper Spire route.

Usually descended in two raps, one from summit to a huge ledge, and another from there to the ground next to the west face. Both rap stations are bolted.
A very fun climb! Technical the first third or so of P1 then mellow up to the big belay ledge. P2 was not hard but a bit heady with the exposure and just slung knobs for pro - very cool and the "mini-alpine" description is apt. Feels like an adventure.

We belayed from a tree at the midpoint of P1 to aid with the communication in windy conditions, so broke it into 3 pitches with the second half of P1 being a quick scramble up class 4. The tree is the rappel point for a couple of adjacent routes and is listed in the ST guide.

Re: rappel. K DJ's description is correct. An unweighted 70M rope almost hits a ground-level ledge below summit block rap off the backside of the formation - we swung left a few feet (10?) without a ton of effort to avoid a bush and land on a ledge further up the hill. Stood on solid ground with a few feet of rope remaining. This was two 150lb+ individuals, so no doubt a few feet of stretch aided us. If you swung right, yes, you would end up way off the ground potentially and to second K DJ again, if you are concerned, stop at the (obvious) interim belay ledge for an additional rap. Aug 8, 2017
K DJ
 
K DJ  
 
Shaniac, I did this a couple weekends ago and found that I could rap all the way down to terra firma from the top on a 70m if we pulled/swung far left. There was no down climbing necessary for us, but for parties that are concerned, I suggest using the 2nd rap station just to be safe.

Felt the 5.6 section was within the first 20-30 feet. That section felt like a 5.6 to me and well protected, but to newer leaders perhaps feels harder as it is more vertical than not. Jul 25, 2017
Shaniac  
If you are rapping off the back, from the summit, a single 70M will NOT reach the ground directly below the chains. You could swing aggressively left and then down climb the final 30+ feet but you are not hitting solid ground. For those whom have rapped down on a single 70 it would be great to hear how you did it. A single 60 will easily get you to the bottom if you use both rap stations. - Thank you. May 14, 2017
NorCalNomad
San Francisco
 
NorCalNomad   San Francisco
 
Not at all stiff for 5.6. May 25, 2016
Can get to ground in 1 rap (barely) with 70m rope. Cool summit Oct 27, 2013
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
An easy free solo way to the top. From the top anchor one can (having long enough rope) rappel to any anchor and TR any Upper Spire route. Oct 16, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.6
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6
Mostly class 4 scrambling with a few technical sections at the start and near the top of pitch 1. Seemed a bit stiff for 5.6. The final ridge traverse is cool but no harder than class 4. Sep 4, 2011
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Swell! Aug 24, 2010