Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 624 total · 6/month
Shared By: Scott T on Feb 12, 2011 with improvements by Aidan Maguire
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

This route now has it's own direct start. It stays to the right of the Stepping Stone start.

Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.

Moving onto the face at the bolt is the crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Another hard move in the finger crack up higher.

A small flake broke at the crux, and is probably now rated 10a.

Location

East face of The Upper Spire

Protection

Up to a #3 Camalot. Extra in the yellow alien to .75 Camalot size. Bring yer small/smallest wires for the final finger crack.

Long slings before and on the bolt will minimize a lot of drag and keep your rope off of a rough edge on the arete.

Photos