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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Paul Crawford and Don Garrett.
Page Views: 247 total · 2/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 10, 2007 with updates from Ron Vardanega
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Stout 5.10d just left of the obvious corner of "Steppin' Stone".

Has sustained sequences but with good pro. A great route that shouldn't be missed for those solid at the grade.


20' or so(?) left of the obvious left facing dihedral of Stepping Stone.


Thin nuts, plenty of small cams. Rap off Steppin Stone or continue on to the top of the spire via 5.10 bolted face climbing.


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bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
I'm glad to see that Don Garrett was recognized in the first ascent of this route, instead of Jay Smith. Don is one of the most underrecognized climbers in Placerville, though he has pioneered one hell of a lot of hard routes in the area. Sep 21, 2016
This route has 2 start variations, the left being the proper one. This is still a heady lead as one launches out left across the slab under the roof aiming for the apex of the roof. The roof had a jug under it that ripped off a decade ago. Now the stance to place pro under the roof is pretty pumpy. Once above the roof most head straight up to the anchor but this is actually the end of Holy Smoke and the correct way is to clip one bolt and then head out left on knobs abd then back right to the anchor.
All told, done in the original way it is definitely PG Dec 30, 2017

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