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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 250 total · 8/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Apr 18, 2016 with updates from Aidan Maguire
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Harrison Indirect? Just plain Harrison? Dunno, the guidebook didn't hold my hand on that one.

All I know is that ascending the plumb line of the rappel off the lower terrace of the Upper Spire, the "variation" avoids the upper portion of Aidan Maguire's "Harrison Direct" which follows some stout looking 5.11b bolted face that departs rightward from this route at about the halfway mark. Instead of crimps and sporting glory, continue to trend up the natural weakness of the crack for blocky and fun 5.8 climbing. The 5.10a crux is encountered down low in either of two obvious right facing variations.

This climb has more than a few creaky flakes and protection isn't always where you want it, but it's an enjoyable route and puts you in the shade of both a large Jeffrey Pine as well as the North Facing aspect of Upper Spire when it's roasting on the South face. It may be a lead more for the confident 5.10a leader given the factors of choss (hey, it would be a 4* classic in J Tree!) and pg13 protection, but it is otherwise cruiser for the grade.

Edit: Apparently, Aidan has made changes to the direct variation which I’ll quote here, though there is still no name provided for the naturally protected line that I have described. Per Aidan: This account is inaccurate and out dated . I changed the route and added an original finish. In doing so I removed the last couple of bolts to Harrison direct that I had placed and put it's own anchor up. Harrison Direct still exists as a TR from the common rap anchor but the new route I shall post up here. It is called Beast of No Nation. Cheers, Aidan”


Standard: doubles of finger-sized cams to a #2 Camalot size. One #3 camalot


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