Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 269 total · 8/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Apr 18, 2016 with updates from Aidan Maguire
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Harrison Indirect? Just plain Harrison? Dunno, the guidebook didn't hold my hand on that one.

All I know is that ascending the plumb line of the rappel off the lower terrace of the Upper Spire, the "variation" avoids the upper portion of Aidan Maguire's "Harrison Direct" which follows some stout looking 5.11b bolted face that departs rightward from this route at about the halfway mark. Instead of crimps and sporting glory, continue to trend up the natural weakness of the crack for blocky and fun 5.8 climbing. The 5.10a crux is encountered down low in either of two obvious right facing variations.

This climb has more than a few creaky flakes and protection isn't always where you want it, but it's an enjoyable route and puts you in the shade of both a large Jeffrey Pine as well as the North Facing aspect of Upper Spire when it's roasting on the South face. It may be a lead more for the confident 5.10a leader given the factors of choss (hey, it would be a 4* classic in J Tree!) and pg13 protection, but it is otherwise cruiser for the grade.

Edit: Apparently, Aidan has made changes to the direct variation which I’ll quote here, though there is still no name provided for the naturally protected line that I have described. Per Aidan: This account is inaccurate and out dated . I changed the route and added an original finish. In doing so I removed the last couple of bolts to Harrison direct that I had placed and put it's own anchor up. Harrison Direct still exists as a TR from the common rap anchor but the new route I shall post up here. It is called Beast of No Nation. Cheers, Aidan”

Protection

Standard: doubles of finger-sized cams to a #2 Camalot size. One #3 camalot

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