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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: FA: George Connor, Dan Chan, '77. FFA: George Connor, Robert Oravetz, '79
Page Views: 218 total · 10/month
Shared By: DylanJK on Oct 2, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This description is for the "direct" variation. I have not climbed the standard 2 pitch version but it looks good as well.

Start on Fear of Flying. Where Fear of Flying busts left, head straight up through the bulge via a steep lieback (crux). Continue through the right trending ramp then finish at the top of P2 Steppin' Stone.

Be ready for horrible rope drag if you're climbing in 1 pitch.

Rap down Steppin' Stone (2 single rope raps) or climb to the Summit (5.6R) and rap down the west side.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start is same as Fear of Flying

Protection [Suggest Change]

.5"-2". Many slings, one protection bolt at the top.

Photos

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There is also a variation that cuts out of Fear Of Flying near the top and hand traverses a thin finger crack out and around the corner horizontally until it reaches the Neckess Traverse. Its short but exposed and exciting. Protects fine and about 10c.
For those obscurists out there. Dec 30, 2017

More About Necklace Traverse "direct"

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