Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: George Connor, Robert Oravetz, 1975.
Page Views: 6,888 total · 46/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 10, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Starts left of Fear Of Flying on the south face.

Take the right hand of two corners.

Climb up, undercling right and climb a flake to its top.

Climb a wide crack or the face to the left, using the crack for pro.

Can be done in one long pitch.

Rappel off back side, 80 feet.

Protection

Pro to 4 inches.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Fun but spooky for 5.7, looks like that whole flake will be on the ground one of these days! Jul 4, 2007
Blitzo
  5.7
Blitzo  
  5.7
This is a good 5.7. Aug 24, 2010
B RAD
 
B RAD  
 
Can I get away without a #4 on this route? Currently i only go up to a #3 C4 and a #9 hex. Thanks! Feb 11, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.7
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.7
You can get away without a #4, but if I recall, this will require you to runout the last pitch a bit (on the last pitch, you face climb to the left of a pretty wide crack that you stuff gear into). Others can correct me here, but if you are pushing your limit, you may want a wide piece. Feb 11, 2011
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
As Jay said, a 5.7 leader will want a #4. If you are willing to run it out a bit on ~5.7 , you'll be ok with the #3 and the hex, I think. Feb 13, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
I thought P1, especially the upper half, was just as good if not better than any 5.7 pitch at Lover's Leap. Two BD #4 cams are useful on each pitch. Take along at least a half dozen slings, you'll want them for a short traverse and for gear placed deep in the wide crack. Sep 4, 2011
You can get away without a #4 camalot on the upper part of the first pitch by using a knob tieoff, a bomber number 10 hex, and two #3 camelots To (over)protect the upper crack drop a #10 hex, #3 camelot, knob tieoff, and a #4 camelot prior to topout Apr 23, 2013
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.8
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.8
No need for a #4. #3s fit in the upper crack, p2, which is an awesome section!! The flake on the upper section of p1 eats #3s!! Had to do in two pitches since didn't have any #3s for the upper crack. Recommend to bring 3 #3s if you got them. Jan 26, 2014
Josh Cameron
California
  5.7
Josh Cameron   California
  5.7
I agree with caughtinside. The lower half of this route has flaky hollow sounding rock. And as far as the fun factor goes, it pales in comparison to it's next door neighbor Fear of Flying. Jan 27, 2015
wsperry
Truckee, CA
 
wsperry   Truckee, CA
 
Did a cool variation for the second pitch,instead of climbing next to the wide crack, I traversed up and left to the corner slinging chickenheads the whole way. Nice and exposed, super fun. Jul 16, 2015
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
 
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
 
I agree with wsperry. The left hand variation on knobs is good even if it's runout a bit. The wide crack is more akward to protect (for me). The left runout face option is good if you're comfortable with low angle runouts on big holds. Feb 26, 2016
billysimek
Boston, MA
 
billysimek   Boston, MA
 
Watch for heinous rope drag if linking both pitches. Aug 6, 2017