Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire, 2000
Page Views: 1,709 total · 14/month
Shared By: snowhazed on Oct 25, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Per ST- "Sustained, balancy, and powerful". Unique and improbable movement. 5.11 climbing at third bolt. Crux move at fourth bolt requires dynamic movement to a gaston finger lock in horizontal roof crack. 5.10 to the chains.

Location

Starts off big shelf to the left of Steppin' Stone. Goes through obvious bulge and roof combo. Finishes on same anchor as Steppin' Stone.

Protection

Trad pro .6 to 1.5" plus 6 bolts. Can clip first bolt by going high on starting shelf - then can continue from there of step back down to start climbing directly beneath the bolt.

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Aidan Maguire
  5.11d
Aidan Maguire  
  5.11d
Route is rated 11d and depends a bit on reach at crux. Option gear is not optional unless very bold and up to 1.5 inch.
At 5:8” I do the crux with a heel hook Oct 22, 2011
Vlad S
  5.12-
Vlad S  
  5.12-
The dyno to a gaston fingerlock move was much harder than 5.11 for me as an average height person. There are no feet for that move as well, so being stronger wouldn't even help much. It's all about reach. The climbing up to that point is already in the 5.11+ range. Cool route! I'll try it again once I grow a few inches. Feb 2, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Killer route, Aiden. I'd say the lower half is low 11/10+ until the gaston fingerlock move. As for that, the move is very doable at average height in my opinion. I am 5'10" and had no problems. Sure, it's a bit hard, and I would give it 11d, but my 5'3" girlfriend was consistently within 1 inch of a solid lock. Overall great route, and don't get scared of the reach! Thanks for the addition, Aiden. Jun 29, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.11d
Michael Dom  
  5.11d
Up there with Lesbian Love in terms of quality. Hard. I definitely whipped. Dec 13, 2015
Ned
Ned  
TRed after climbing Steppin Stone. Among the list of holds I never thought I'd have to use at Phantom Spires, there's a bomber mono about half way up. The footless gaston fingerlock dyno was definitely a different level of bouldery than the rest of the climb, but fun moves. Decided not to booty a leaver biner two bolts down from there, it was starting to get worn through, as if a lot of people bailed there. Jun 19, 2016
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, CA
 
No gear needed, just bolts.

I'm 5'7" and the dyno gaston seemed fair at 5.11+. It felt like a coordination problem in the gym. Nov 17, 2018