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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginger Bread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: E. Barrett, G. Connor, Dave Stam, 1978. FFA: Dick Richardson and friends, 1979.
Page Views: 3,308 total, 24/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Start in a prominent, left facing, corner, right of "Fear of Flying". Climb up this corner, undercling left at a small roof, continue up, undercling left at a big roof (5.11a) to a belay with two bolts.
Continue up face.

Protection

Pro to 3".
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11a
^^^ Interesting take on this route Vlad. I actually felt that the second pitch was more like 10c and that the first pitch was the clear crux (I think Lesbian Love is quite a bit harder than anything on SS). I also didn't think that it was super easy at 11a, but its hard for me to remember because its been close to a decade since I have done it. Feb 18, 2015
Vlad S
  5.11b
Vlad S  
  5.11b
I'm a bit confused. The rating for the route seems to only go for the first pitch, which is pretty cruiser 11a. The 2nd pitch is clealy the crux with a few very thin sections and climbing as hard as on neighboring "Lesbian Love" or perhaps even less secure, so 11b or even c seems more appropriate. One of the best routes at the spires! I've been waiting to do this one for a very long time and wasn't disappointed. Feb 2, 2015
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11a
Hi Rennie,

I don't think that most people consider the ledge to be 'off'. In fact, I think most folks probably regroup there and try to reach over and stuff some pro in before casting off into the undercling. Such a good route. Nov 6, 2013
Rennie Putnam
Davis, CA
 
Rennie Putnam   Davis, CA
 
Is sitting on the big ledge to the right of the crux roof technically off route? It was a much needed rest but felt a little like cheating. Nov 6, 2013
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.11b
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.11b
My favorite route at the Spires that I've done so far (well, that and Candyland!) Came back for a second time and this time did the second pitch...

I wondered: has someone led the first pitch without cams? The first ascent being in the late 70's, I imagine they have? That seems truly incredible, I'd love to hear stories of those early ascents. Personally, I placed 4 pieces under the roof, and couldn't imagine futzing with anything but cams there...

The lower stemming section was also quite memorable, and lots of fun - hard moves are followed by decent rests in the lower part.

Second pitch - nothing too scary but definitely some thin slab moves needed in a couple of sections to connect the knobs. Trickier and more sustained than it looks from below, I found that pitch much less straightforward and in a way, harder.

Altogether these two pitches combine into one sweet and memorable line! Apr 29, 2013
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Placed way too much gear in the roof at my first lead attempt out of fear and pumped off it. I only placed two pieces in the roof the second time around and got it. Seems harder than 11a to onsight. Jun 13, 2010
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11-
Ol Toby   CA
  5.11-
The first pitch offers two distinct, technical .11- cruxes, separated by an airy rest. Thin gear in the dihedral, off-finger to protect the undercling. Paste the feet and go. Superb. Feb 8, 2009
Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA
Eric Barrett   Spokane, WA
Wow! Fun to see this route as the "Featured Route" on the Mtn Project home page. I'm listed as the FA guy when in fact I only did the FA of the first pitch. Never did get back and get any higher. Dick Richardson and friend (maybe Malcolm Jolly?) went up and pushed the upper face which was inspirational for the time. Neat memories!

Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA Oct 24, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.11b
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.11b
A pretty fun route but felt more like .11b to me. This is a really interesting climb because it has several different styles of climbing. Apr 23, 2008