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Steppin' Stone [Edit]
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 24
votes
Routes in Upper Spire
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Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Robert's Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Thanksgiving T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | E. Barrett, G. Connor, Dave Stam, 1978. FFA: Dick Richardson and friends, 1979. |
| Page Views: | 3,426 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures
Details
Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description [Edit]
Start in a prominent, left facing, corner, right of "Fear of Flying". Climb up this corner, undercling left at a small roof, continue up, undercling left at a big roof (5.11a) to a belay with two bolts.
Continue up face.
Continue up face.
Sacramento, CA
Spokane, WA
Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA Oct 24, 2008
CA
Bishop, CA
Truckee, CA
I wondered: has someone led the first pitch without cams? The first ascent being in the late 70's, I imagine they have? That seems truly incredible, I'd love to hear stories of those early ascents. Personally, I placed 4 pieces under the roof, and couldn't imagine futzing with anything but cams there...
The lower stemming section was also quite memorable, and lots of fun - hard moves are followed by decent rests in the lower part.
Second pitch - nothing too scary but definitely some thin slab moves needed in a couple of sections to connect the knobs. Trickier and more sustained than it looks from below, I found that pitch much less straightforward and in a way, harder.
Altogether these two pitches combine into one sweet and memorable line! Apr 29, 2013
Albuquerque, NM
Colorado
I don't think that most people consider the ledge to be 'off'. In fact, I think most folks probably regroup there and try to reach over and stuff some pro in before casting off into the undercling. Such a good route. Nov 6, 2013
Colorado