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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: David Babich, George Connor, 1978
Page Views: 250 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ryan Kosh on May 17, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Climb the East Face to a bolted belay then follow the roof (crux) on the right crack system above the belay.


Rappel the west side via tattered webbing and a ring. A 60m rope is just long enough for the rappel.


Pro to 3" The crack above the roof takes #3 and #4 C4's.


- No Photos -
Heard the lower half of this is a more recent route called Thanksgiving put up by Aidan McGuire, but the description and FA date have me confused. Anyone have more details? Jun 14, 2010
the 1st pitch of Desperado roof is a highly forgettable pitch that follows easy ground from right, working up and left to the belay which was gear. Thanksgiving is essentially the fall line from that belay. Straight down 100 feet. Subsequently there is a chain belay at the end of the 1st pitch of Desperado as it is the same as the anchor for Thanksgiving.
Thanksgiving follow face to a small roof that is worked around left and then easy ground for 12 feet then a great finger crack seam that takes small gear. The crux is the middle of the crack which is protected with very small but perfectly safe gear. It gets great morning sun.
The FA was on TG day hence the name Dec 30, 2017
abandon moderation   Tahoe
P2 through the roof is absolutely classic and deserves much more traffic. One of the most exciting pitches at the spires.

Doing the direct start via thanksgiving is a fun start and recommended.

On the very summit there are two bolts with rings, a 70m just barely gets you to the ground on the other side in one shot May 7, 2018

More About Desperado (Roof Variation)