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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Paul Crawford, Jay Smith Lanny Johnson, Mard Hudon, 1984
Page Views: 289 total · 5/month
Shared By: Pavel Burov on Oct 16, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

A good balancy face climb with a somewhat questionable protection to the first bolt. As of 2013 spring bolts are rusty and questionable. Do not fall.

Location

Start to the left of the big ugly bushes to the left to Lesbian Love. Spot the first bolt and climb to it by an obvious line traversing to the right. Then climb the most obvious line passing two more bolts. Then move right to the 8'th bolt of Lesbian Love and up to the Lesbian Love anchor (need 70m rope to a bit stretchy rappel).

To toprope T-Bone and Lesbian Love bring a 80m rope (doable with a 70m but a bit stretchy).

Protection

Thin pro (nuts, small cams, offsets are useful) to the first draw and half a dozen of draws.

Photos

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A classic line that needs the bolts replacing. It looks very scary but is typical of Smith/Crawford routes from the day and is actually pretty reasonable to lead fro the confident leader in the grade
Can be TR'd from the Lesbian Love anchor. An alternative TR variation exists, After the last T Bone bolt head up and slightly left to surmount the bulge on powerful widely spaced knobs. Super fun Dec 30, 2017

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