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The Phantom Wanders
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Upper Spire
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5.10 crack T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granite Zeppelin A0 |
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Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Phantom Wanders, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Robert's Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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T-Bone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up for Grabs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.78867, -120.24518 |
| FA: | FFA: Paul Crawford 80's or early 90's |
| Page Views: | 92 total · 92/month |
| Shared By: | Jacob Solomon on Feb 9, 2026 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Starts inside of a wide flaring and rounded edged column. There are a few of these in a row but only one seems like it would go at 5.11 thin fingers. Crux is establishing and maintaining up the first 12 feet of sharp thin fingers. Recommend for belayer to be anchored in at the base on small nuts as we did.
Continue up the thin fingers to wide section which should take gear. After the excitement of the lower half starts to broil in your brain, take the easy climbing to the bivy sized ledge. The ledge presents a few options. Left corner looks like it goes a bit easier, but why take that when you can slam a few ring locks to thin hands to the beautiful flake with perfect hands to fists.
Top out on the same ledge that Fear of Flying and Jugs Revisited spits you out at.
[Updates from emails with admins] Sounds like ~all of these gritty and flaring cracks have been climbed throughout the years. I updated the FA to Paul Crawford. Noted by one admin that "it was just so dirty and grainy nobody bothered to mention it". If someone has a more original name we can update it. If not... The Phantom Wanders awaits some cleaning as it is an adventurous line well deserving of some traffic given a short OW section, tricky fingers, followed by amazing ring locks to jams off the bivvy ledge half way up.
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