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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 427 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aidan Maguire on Oct 21, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

ONE OF THE ABSOLUTE BEST SPIRES ROUTES. CLASSIC TRAD.

Option 1: Begins Up Fear of flying and at about 45 feet (just under the F of F crux) pulls out of the corner onto the face around right (tricky) There is a bolt around the corner on the face that protects the move 10c) Pulls small roof on gear (10d crux) and then trends up and right (1 more bolt and knobs to sling ) to end P1 at Stepping Stone anchor.

Option 2: Begin up the Fear of Flying direct variation start on slightly tricky gear. Follow bolts past harder moves (11b/c) to gain small roof described in option 1 above

P2 (Brilliant!) works left and up to gain exposed arete on technical slightly run out ground, crossing neckless traverse up and left reaching double roofs next to arete. Climb over first roof with piton protection and traverse left under second roof and fully around left (very exposed) side of arete into 15 feet of superb exposed overhanging juggy (11a) crack before coming back around right to finish up tricky slabs to old 2 bolt anchor. Better anchor can be found by continuing to summit ( add 40 ft of 3rd class)

This is one of the very best, longest and least known routes at the Spires

Location

The arete/face to the right of Fear of Flying. On top of spire is a rap anchor with chains

Protection

Standard Rack and bolts

Photos

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snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
Haven't been there in awhile- and this route sparks my interest to return considering the quality of all the routes on that panel Feb 3, 2015
Ned
Ned  
TRed after climbing Steppin Stone (left a directional on the last bolt). Fun moves up the arete, then transitioning right on flakes and finally up glory chickenheads. Jun 19, 2016

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