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Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: David Babich and Eric Barrett, 1978
Page Views: 189 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ben Logan on Feb 18, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

5.8 crux off the ground. Follow shallow flaring groove to horizontal finger crack. Move left and pull onto ledge. Continue up 4th class terrain for 50 feet (joining North Ridge route) and belay at a blocky area below summit. Scramble to the summit via a low angle yet exposed arete (easy 5th class) to access rap anchors.

Location

The route farthest up hill on the West Face. Around the corner from the North Ridge route.

Protection

Several small to medium sized nuts. Cams to 2 inches. Double length runner to sling huge xenolith.

Photos

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Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.9
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.9
start is much harder than 5.8 IMO, but just for a few moves, so don't let it scare you off the climb. 1 star for climbing + 1 star for summit. Jun 14, 2015
You can rap off the first belay station, but it's totally worth it to scramble up the 4th class rock pile and up the 5.5 traverse to the summit. The 360 degree view is out of this world! Sep 1, 2014