Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Upper Spire

Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Robert's Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up for Grabs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: George Connor, George Oravetz, 1975.
Page Views: 2,452 total · 17/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Climb a short 5.9 lieback. Continue up a beautiful knobby face with tied off knobs and sparse gear placements. Continue up the wide crack of "Ginger Bread".
Can be done in one or two pitches.

Protection

Tie-off slings, pro to 4".

Photos

426
426  
Very good line, as with most spires climbs, consider taking a few more runners... Mar 10, 2007
Tommy L-D  
 
I would have found some pretty small gear helpful too. Apr 19, 2010
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.9 PG13
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.9 PG13
Really fun climb. I agree - bring small gear. I placed a red, purple, and green Black Diamond C3 (along with bigger stuff in the beginning and at the end). Although fairly well protected throughout, you do have to commit to the stiff 5.9 crux with the last good gear placement a couple feet below you. Oct 14, 2013
Lucian G.
California
 
Lucian G.   California
 
I agree with the comments here- the SuperTopo recommends a double rack and no nuts. I'd either bring nuts or bring a few extra small cams (like #1 mastercam or smaller) to place in the thin crack on P1. Otherwise it might get a little runout when you traverse onto knobs. A fun route in any case and the crux is low and well protected! Jul 13, 2015

More About Jugs Revisited

Printer-Friendly