Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: George Connor, George Oravetz, 1975.
Page Views: 2,647 total · 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Climb a short 5.9 lieback. Continue up a beautiful knobby face with tied off knobs and sparse gear placements. Continue up the wide crack of "Ginger Bread".
Can be done in one or two pitches.

Protection

Tie-off slings, pro to 4".

Photos

426
426  
Very good line, as with most spires climbs, consider taking a few more runners... Mar 10, 2007
Tommy L-D  
 
I would have found some pretty small gear helpful too. Apr 19, 2010
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.9 PG13
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.9 PG13
Really fun climb. I agree - bring small gear. I placed a red, purple, and green Black Diamond C3 (along with bigger stuff in the beginning and at the end). Although fairly well protected throughout, you do have to commit to the stiff 5.9 crux with the last good gear placement a couple feet below you. Oct 14, 2013
Lucian G.
Oakland, CA
 
Lucian G.   Oakland, CA
 
I agree with the comments here- the SuperTopo recommends a double rack and no nuts. I'd either bring nuts or bring a few extra small cams (like #1 mastercam or smaller) to place in the thin crack on P1. Otherwise it might get a little runout when you traverse onto knobs. A fun route in any case and the crux is low and well protected! Jul 13, 2015
Jamie Silliman
Folsom, CA
Jamie Silliman   Folsom, CA
I found this to be a techy lead, there are two ways to go, one on the left is a sort of straight in crack/seam, and the one on the right is a left facing corner. The one on the right has bad fall potential onto the ledge you're standing on when you start...there's a sort of horn sticking up that could gouge you if you fell off the crux. I could only manage to get in a decent small nut and a smaller TCU at the crux, but I also had a good cam a little below that. The upper part after this is classic. Aug 20, 2018
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Yep, bring the tiny cams. I placed a purple, green, and red C3 as well as a red (0.1) X4. 2 #4s can also be used if you link this in 1 pitch. I placed 1 down low (first piece) and 1 up high in the wider crack.

Great pitch, but maybe not the best route if you're just breaking into 5.9. Best done in 1 long pitch if you ask me. Oct 30, 2018