Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Price/Smith first 25', Aidan Maguire next 25', Crawford/Smith last 25' 2002
Page Views: 3,999 total · 37/month
Shared By: Monica Jones on Jun 13, 2010 with improvements by Jamie Silliman and 1 other
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

The crux is near the top, although just getting started is tricky too. Climbs the prominent white dike on the south facing side of the upper spire. Gorgeous and technical face climbing.

Location

Middle of the face on the upper spire's south face to the left of fear of flying. Can't miss it. Lower or rap off anchors with a 70m.

Protection

Bolts to anchors.

Photos

Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
All my best onsights are on the second try. Jun 15, 2010
Jebus H Bomz
Sacramento, CA
Jebus H Bomz   Sacramento, CA
Deep Thoughts by Ryan Kelly. Jan 28, 2011
Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
I tried this ground up as the sun was setting. I left a biner 3/4 of the way up. I'll get you next time 'Dike love!!' (Sorry I just got the pun...) Jan 19, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.11c
Michael Dom  
  5.11c
Super cool climb. Worth getting on. Dec 13, 2015
grabski
N California
  5.11c
grabski   N California
  5.11c
Whew, good climb. Thin, sustained, and hard. You can climb and lower off this with a 60m with a couple feet left. Jun 19, 2016
A travesty! Perhaps?
After staring for a decade at the amazing, perfect, vertical dike that catches the sunset so well and contemplating what I though was only half of a route, I felt the need to "finish it". The original line stopped at 40 feet at unprotected, none stance-able, none hook-able 11c rock and veers off at 90 degrees to join Robert's Crack. I didn't know how to reach Price or Smith at the time and It seemed to me that they could not advance up the obvious line and so veered off 90 degrees left to join Robert's Crack? This seemed such a terrible waste to not have a complete line following the amazing dike feature the whole way and so I decided, in my arrogance to "finish" it. To me, It seemed ridiculous to have only 2 old bolts to the crux making a dangerous runout to get to the hard middle third which I would bolt in a normal fashion, so i considered the options. After some deliberations and discussions I decided to pull the manky old bolts, replace and add 2 more to the lower third and then carry it up to a 90 foot mark and put in an anchor. This would leave the entire route safely but certainly not overly bolted. It could, perhaps should, of been named "Price-Smith direct", it was the obvious choice, but I thought that would be untrue since it wasn't the horror show runout meandering route it was. When I thought up the clever double entendre, Lesbian Love named after the "beautiful dike" I could not resist and the sin was complete.
And so it was with some minor shame I committed my worst "first ascent" blasphemy.
I have since met and climbed with Bill and have met Jay. They are climbers in a league I never attained and legends whose routes I have on-sighted and others I have squinted up at in disbelief. My apologies. Should one feel the need to repeat the original route, clip bolt 2 and 3, sling a knob and head to Roberts crack. Oct 27, 2018