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Routes in First Tier

Antique T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Caverns, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commitment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanging Teeth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Munginella T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Surprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Try Again Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werner's Ant Trees T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Work Around the Skirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Fender, Vic Tishous, 1966.
Page Views: 20,625 total, 151/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This very popular route lies in the farthest left book.

The Reid guide shows it as three pitches, but it's great to do it in two with a 60 meter rope. There are three trees on the route. Climb to the third tree, make a hard left, 10' to the corner. There's a nice little ledge there where you can sit and belay. Another long pitch goes to the top.

Location

Approach: At one point you should cross the stream bed to the right, and walk up a small rock slab to where the route continues. The approach should take ~15 minutes if you don't get off route.

The carabiner signs posts (there are 2) are not easily spotted from the trail on the approach. When you get an information signpost titled "Profile of a Waterfall", back up 50 feet and look to your left. You'll see the carabiner signpost tucked into the woods about 30 feet from the trail. Follow it up and it'll lead you to the second signpost, which is right at the start of the route. You will need to go up the 3rd class and right along a ledge for the first belay at a tree/bush/ledge.


Descent: Right at the top there are two paths to the left, one goes down and one goes up. Go up!!! The down path leads to an extremely small path on the edge of a cliff, with a short downclimb. If you fall, slip or trip there you will die. The paths meet later. You can rappel from the bolts you find with a 60 meter rope, if you don't want to walk/slide down the slabs near them.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".
Chas Robles
Burque, NM
Chas Robles   Burque, NM
Left a sling with a number 4 camalot and a grigri hanging on a tree at the base of the climb. Please DM me if you grabbed this. Thanks! Oct 8, 2017
Steven Higdon
Portland, OR
Steven Higdon   Portland, OR
Great route. My partner and I aren't great at route finding, so the approach up the climber trail was annoying, but if you just keep going up, you'll eventually find it.

We climbed it just after a rain so the "4th class" approach to the first belay was a little sketchy — the dead tree in the way was slick. Other than that, you just had to avoid wet munge. From the roof section up the final 70 feet or so was my favorite spot. Careful of the loose block in the hand jam about 9 feet from the top.

The hike down was phenomenal as well. From the top, just take a left and go downhill and start traversing the green meadow across a few streams. Theres a pretty good rap down between the two streams so long as you don't mind soaking your rope. Very scenic. Apr 14, 2016
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.6
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.6
We opted to do the 5.7 finish. Although the climbing is fun, I don't recommend the 5.7 variation. The top out is *extremely* loose and nearly impossible to setup a belay and not knock shit down. Do the left standard finish and belay at the bolts. Jun 19, 2015
Floyd Hayes
  5.6
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6
A video of the route is posted here: youtu.be/GoQUnC6N1YU May 6, 2015
Ben Horowitz
Berkeley
 
Ben Horowitz   Berkeley
 
A fun alternative 3rd pitch goes right up the hand crack on the face. It was pretty fun, ST says it goes at 5.7, but felt harder due to having to clean dirt out of the holds and there were a few pretty committing moves where you just have to stand up and trust there is a good higher jam/jug.

In any event, I would suggest starting this really early as it is very easy to get stuck behind slow parties... Mar 24, 2015
Sheets
Livermore, CA
Sheets   Livermore, CA
I was on this for the 1st time in many years recently. We climbed out on the right face to avoid the 3 parties on the route. The face is a bit more difficult (5.7) and with trickier pro but just as fun in its own right.

This climb is probably the most dangerous route in the Supertopo guidebook. The 5.1 escape gully at the start of the second pitch is a natural funnel for rocks being knocked down from above. I saw a softball size rock nearly hit a girl starting up the second pitch. Several other rocks came down on us while racking up at the base. People doing the descent of 5 Open Books are either unaware/unwilling/incapable of descending without sending a stream of rockfall down this route. Be careful out there. Feb 19, 2015
Tim Fry
Charlotte NC
Tim Fry   Charlotte NC
Just to give my $0.02 on finding this thing: The carabiner posts (there are 2) are not easily spotted from the trail. When you get an information signpost titled "Profile of a Waterfall", back up 50ft and look to your left. You'll see the carabiner signpost tucked into the woods about 30ft from the trail. Follow it up and it'll lead you to the second signpost, which is right at the start of the route. You will need to go up the 3rd class and right along a ledge for the first belay. Nov 4, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.6
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.6
^^^^ @ John Ryan,

Really? Scrambling up a dirty 4th class gully? Either you were off route or you are being melodramatic. The first pitch is fun on clean stone, i.e. this:

mountainproject.com/v/10604…

does not constitute a chossy gully. Moreover as far as 5.6s in the Valley go, this is a pretty good one (certainly better than the 'glass corner' first pitch of After Six). Mar 13, 2014
John Ryan
Poncha Springs, CO
John Ryan   Poncha Springs, CO
I have no idea how this climb is considered a classic. The first 1-2 pitches totally suck and are a scramble up a chossy gully - 4th class at best except for a few moves. Maybe a half-pitch of cool climbing at the top. Worst climb I've done in Yosemite. Mar 13, 2014
Mike McLean
  5.6
Mike McLean  
  5.6
Got off route after the third tree; went over the roof and followed the thin double cracks ... was wondering what that is (is it a route), and what it goes at ... ? Oct 1, 2013
Victor Whipping
Salt Lake City
  5.6
Victor Whipping   Salt Lake City
  5.6
Just want to reiterate that the top has many large, loose blocks. Heading to the right at the top avoided most of the deathblocks. Great route, enjoy! Jul 30, 2013
2nd Multi-pitch route in Yos. lots of fun super cruisy with a great view of the falls halfway through the 2P. Try out the short bolt alt. to the right on P2. Have fun, I did! Nov 26, 2012
The trail is not obvious, and the post is around 50' back off the trail. Look for it around 50 yards before the bridge. Nov 25, 2012
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
watch out for ants-infested cracks that are often very inviting hand jams. Ran into one on first pitch and they were all over my body biting before I could put a piece in and hang (they even followed my rope up as I was belaying my second)! Nov 15, 2012
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
Just be careful after topping out and try not to dislodge rocks on others below. The ledge is dirty and very loose. Still one of my favorites after many years. Some really good but easy climbing! Jul 29, 2012
j sh
Pacifica, CA
 
j sh   Pacifica, CA
 
it can be done in 2 pitches with a 50 meter if you belay at the highest stance or simul climb for 10 ft. on the first pitch. Jun 14, 2011
Daniel Plinska  
  5.6
This is a truly relaxing route. It rounded off our Yosemite trip quite well. I found #.75 - #2 Camalots and larger BD stoppers to be my best friends. Apr 25, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
A Yosemite classic at the 5.6 level. That said, it still tends to be gritty and dirty from constant dirt and rockfall, knocked down from above. This is an absolute "must wear a hard hat" area! The first pitch is a real kick! Mar 15, 2011
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
I'm really surprised that no one has commented on how dirty the second pitch is. Don't get me wrong - I thought this was a fun cruiser climb, but I was blowing and wiping sand off of holds for the last 50 feet, trying not to slip. I guess it sprinkles down on the climb from the trail above? Oct 21, 2010
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
like the guidebooks say, pay attention at the top of the route for loose rock, and not just until you've unroped at the tree.

Rocks you turn loose on your way to the descent will rocket down the dihedral, launching onto climbers below you. Just pay attention. Jul 9, 2010
ShibbyShane  
 
We found two carabiner posts today: one tucked into the trees near the start of the approach (somewhat hard to find), and another right at the base of the wall where you scramble up for the first pitch of Munginella (very obvious). Awesome route! Mar 28, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
To add to caughtinside's comment, the total route length is about 300' and easily climbed in two 150' pitches. Mar 21, 2009
the trail description in the Supertopo guide is wrong. the carabiner posts no longer exist, except for the one at the route beginning. Sep 21, 2008
RockMonkey
Concord, CA
  5.6
RockMonkey   Concord, CA
  5.6
Don't forget to scramble up a farely obvious ramp to the tree/bush/ledge and begin the 1st pitch there. Sep 18, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
wow... great description.

Anyway, this was my first valley lead several years ago. I think the reid guide shows it as 3 pitches, but it's great to do it in 2 with a 60m rope. There are three trees on the route. CLimb to the 3rd tree, make a hard left, 10' to the corner. A nice little ledge where you can sit and belay. Another long pitch to the top. Jul 24, 2007