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Rock Climbing Photo: Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Chris D

Point Rank: # 280
Total Points: 2,398
Last Year: 131
Last 30 Days: 0
80 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris D been climbing?










Contributions


All 1198 | Routes 44 | Areas 27 | Photos 273 | Page Improvements | Comments 182 | Posts 437 | Stars 203 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: These are not the anchors for Cryptic. These are the rap anchors for all routes on the Headstone (rap the north face), and the anchors that people use at the top of the SW Corner.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: These are the anchors at the top of Cryptic. The rap anchors (and chains) are just west of these spinners. You don't want to rap off of these, but you can toprope Cryptic from them.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.9-)
By: Chris D When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Polished!

What a fun climb. The business is over after just a couple of jams off the blocks as plentiful and solid holds present themselves on the left face. Great little climb, but over too soon.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall
By: Chris D When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Our first stop on our first visit to Smith Rock. Judging from the sand and grit in the cracks and the lack of chalk on even the higher rated climbs, this area has fallen into neglect. The couple of routes that we did showed no sign of having been climbed in a long time, though some of the footholds had the glassy polish that only comes from years of regular ascents. Worth a stop just to check out the very high quality of the basalt and climb some cracks.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Moscow (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Expect this to keep your attention with lots of moves at the grade if you're at your leading limit. Improbably steep climbing for 5.6, something great on every pitch, and a very "alpine-like" feel, especially the first pitch. Views from the top are spectacular. Bring big gear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : The Textbooks
By: Chris D When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: This place is shady until late in the morning, some routes stay shady past noon.

There's some good fixed gear here and old school stuff that I don't know if I'd trust (read homemade angle-iron bolt hangers). There's also some single bolt anchors that look to be intended for TRing and rapping from. Less than ideal.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Heart Throb (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: NOTE: The 5.7 climbing ends at the bolt below the roof. You can lower from here, but you'll be lowering and rapping from a single bolt at some point. There's also a fixed pin above the bolt.

Not sure if anyone's finished the route lately, but the stuff above the little traverse to the left of the roof is way harder than 5.7, even old school 5.7.

The crack is okay, I guess, but nothing you'd want to hike in just to do. It's very short.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Awesome ridge, and for all the talk, the approach isn't as big a deal as you'd assume. The majority of the ridge from the top of the south headwall to the south summit is pretty much an incredible walk interrupted with some easy 4th class moves. The ridge was mobbed (on a beautiful June Saturday), but it was very easy to pass slow parties.

I have to kind of laugh at all the "I can't imagine why anyone would rap off the North Summit instead of doing the whole ridge" stuff. Strength? Stamina? T... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Church Domes : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Guy.

I spent a couple of days up at the crags with my dogs and a copy of the old Moser guide and correlated the photos in the book with specific features/routes...so I hope I got it right on this map.

I posted some photos from that trip here in a collection of sets of Flickr.

A beautiful and quiet place with some fantastic rock.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Ken! I assume you meant "right" not "left" in your first sentence. Surprised I'd never read/heard that there was a reasonably direct way to avoid the crux of the pitch. It will be fun to get back there in the spring and have a go at the correct route up the first pitch.

The way we went on P1 (in the photo in my previous post) included good pro, a lot of underclings, and reasonably secure feet on wide-ish stems. Pretty sure there was nothing harder than .9, since I didn't fall.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: Chris D When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: "An evil gunslinging midget comes to terrorize the good little people of Tiny Town. The townspeople organize to defeat him, and zany antics ensue..."





Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: I don't think we were on Edgehogs...here's a photo of Joe just getting ready to head into the crux of P1.



Angled left along a bunch of awesome underclings to a thin crack where the deep dihedral begins. Were we on route? The hardest part of the pitch was the few feet below the bolted anchor, which i guess is actually the end of edgehogs P1, not P1 Whodunit?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: Just got on this for the first time today. Wow. What a fantastic climb! Everything you could want at Tahquitz; fantastic cracks, a top out on the absolute true summit of the rock, chimneys, easy offwidths, one of the longest routes on the rock, great belays ledges, and lots of sustained climbing.

Not sure what all the talk is about the crux being on the first pitch. The first pitch, except for a couple of thin moves around the fixed pin near the edgehogs anchors, is not that bad,... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Whitney : East Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Dang, that dude looks like he's havin' a grand ole time!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Lone Pine Peak : North Ridge (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: 21 hours on the move. This is a complex ridge, and much of the fun and adventure is not being able to see what's around the next corner and not really knowing where the hell you are. The going is reasonably easy if you're smart about your route choices. You can pretty easily keep it interesting and under 5.6 for pretty much the entire route if you're careful. Still, there's plenty of trip reports out there from people with experience who ended up having an epic on this ridge. YMMV.

I have ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: What Buzz said.

It's a spectacular position, and the rock is outstanding. The views are mind-boggling, and the climbing is quality; it's just not very hard.

P1 was some sustained easy fifth, then the rest of the climb was 4th and 3rd interspersed with fun, casual low-fifth class moves. All of the harder moves are easy to protect and a fall would usually land you on a big ledge.

The "5.7, poor pro" face climbing at the start of P3 that everyone gets excited about is good, but the c... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Beach Area : Overfilled Water Bed : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: This kid cranks!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Slab (5.8 R)
By: Chris D When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Got back on this on second yesterday after whipping on it on lead a couple of years ago. BURLY.

This is not for the "modern" 5.8 leader, unless that person spends a lot of time honing their lieback skills. The crux is a mandatory lieback to a splitter hand crack. That lieback is steep, maybe fifteen feet, there's no gear, and if you came off you'd get banged up bad if you failed to avoid the little ledge you preview the crux from.

Not sure what to rate this, since it really needs to be though... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Apr 27, 2012

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Comments: Chris: Yes, there's climbers on The Price of Fear and at least three or four other routes that you can see in the "giant mosaic photo" that I link to in the post above. Kinda neat.

I see a lot of people miss the "doubtful corner" (middle of what I show as the fourth pitch in the topo above) on this route by going straight up, and it's a shame. The exposure on the move where you step out onto the tree is tremendous for the grade.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Indian Wells Canyon : Breakfast Crags : Green Eggs and Ham : Grape Nuts (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Despite being thick with brightly colored lichen, this route had already cleaned up nicely after a dozen or so repeats. It will only get better with more traffic!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Indian Wells Canyon : Owens Ridge : Owens Ridge North Face : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: I was about 50 feet above it before i got another piece of gear, so I was hoping it would hold more than a hat!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Electric Koolaid (5.9+) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: That's Richard I'm pointing (and laughing) at. I didn't even notice that aspect of the photo until after I'd finished photoshopping it. Bonus!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Algae on Parade (5.7) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: Wow. This looks a LOT steeper than it really is. Don't worry kids, this thing is low-angle...but TONS of fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Algae on Parade (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: What a fun, fun, route! The first pitch was fun and felt like 5.7. There's so many holds (and so little chalk) that you could have trouble finding the easiest holds and maybe commit to something that felt 5.8 (?)but with care it's a solid 7.

The third pitch is long and fun! Just a blast. Big holds, low-angle rock, two nice parallel splitters for cams, stuff to sling, what a romp. Send your budding trad leader up this one for a confidence builder, then finish the route unroped if you feel se... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Electric Koolaid (5.9+)
By: Chris D When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: Handren must have been confused when he gave three stars to Neon Sunset and only one to this route. I think he meant to do it the other way around. This is a much better route, though the finish is odd for a sport route.

Also, if this is 5.9+, then the 5.9+ routes in the Black Corridor are 11a. No single move harder than 5.8.


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