Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dissolution Rock

Life's a Bitch and then You Marry One T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Marital Sin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Till Death Do Us Part T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unwashed Lederhosen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Whoa - Hmmm - Ahhh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Don Reid and Alan Roberts
Page Views: 3,231 total, 18/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


79 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the attractive looking hand crack just right of the arete. Scramble up an easy slab to the start of the crack, and then start jamming. Good climbing, but wish it was longer. Very soft for 5.7

Protection

stoppers and cams to 3"
Jason Krug
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
Jason Krug   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.7
Great for cold winter morning when you need some sun Dec 13, 2011
Good warm up before you head over to mental physics Apr 22, 2010
Chris D
the couch
  5.7
Chris D   the couch
  5.7
Climbed this route today, and old webbing on the rap anchors is not an issue; someone added a pair of quick links to the bolt hangers to the right of the top of this climb.

The rap anchor can also be used to TR Marital Sin, which is 5.10c, but if you can't climb at that level, it's still fun, the hard part of the route can be skipped by traversing to the right below the first bolt, getting a foot on the large knob overhead, then stemming out to the only obvious hold to your left to get back on route. Dec 14, 2009
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
Fun route that eats up gear! Anchors at the top, though webbing may need to be replaced soon... looked at worked just fine, just about anyone's guess as to how old it was. May 3, 2009
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.7
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.7
Not a bad route just way too short. Take note that there are no rap rings on the bolts up top. There is some webbing and cord thru the bolts and one of them is an old 1/4 inch bolt. The one bolt needs to be replaced and rap rings installed. It also appears that some bolts on the climbers left were chopped. I don't believe these are convenience bolts since there is not a safe walkoff that I could find. Apr 21, 2008
Taryn
San Diego, CA
Taryn   San Diego, CA
Top roped the 5.9 arĂȘte just to the left of Life's A Bitch, some fun huggy moves, worth doing as long as you're up there. You can use the same anchor you built for Life's A Bitch. Start in the dihedral with bush and then "hug" the arĂȘte all the way up. Sep 24, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
Short and sweet. Mar 7, 2007
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.7
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.7
One of the more mellow 5.7's in the Park. Not 100% sure where the 5.7 move was but felt like it was there somewhere... Oct 2, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Fun and no crowds! Dec 11, 2002