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The Bong
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2.7 from 878
votes
Routes in The Blob - North Face
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A Walk on the Beach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Ballbury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bong, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Bonglett, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hoblett T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Use It or Lose It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.13485, -116.33854 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 53,591 total · 184/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Jun 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Approach: Probably several. The easiest I've found is to locate Hobbit Roof at the base of the backside (west face) of The Blob. From here, scramble up gully to the right to the base of the route.
At 5.4, The Bong is a fantastic first trad lead and as well as an excellent free-solo. It offers excellent jams and is easy to protect. The crux is a small "roof". Beyond the crux, the angle lessens and it's straight-in jamming to the top. Once on top, a large boulder sits directly in-line with the route and offers a quick and easy anchor using a section of the rope or a long piece of webbing.
To descend, walk to climber's left and downclimb low 5th class terrain with big face holds. This will deposit you about 50' left of the base of the route. Some sideways chimneying will bring you back to your packs. (Note: it might be better to lower off first-timers from the top of the route).
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