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Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 27,169 total · 138/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 7, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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A great beginner route with excellent exposure. Rated 5.1 in Vogel's guidebook, this route in my opinion warrants a slightly stiffer rating. Begin in alcove up low-angle crack. Continue onto steep face with great holds for a full rope length (approx. 150') to the top. Gear belay.

Also makes for a nice free solo at the end of the day.

Descent: walk east down the backside and back around (north) to your pack.


Light rack to 3".
I definitely agree about the rating. No way this thing is 5.1!! It's pretty exposed, and there aren't a lot of solid gear placements either. This would make a great beginner climb as a TR, but I definitely wouldn't recommend it for the inexperienced trad leader.

It's in an interesting location, and it ends in a really neat slot, but I wasn't all that impressed with the climbing itself. Nov 4, 2002
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
If you do end up toproping the route, be sure to bring 2 ropes. I think you can get away without having to pass the knot, but I can't be certain. Nov 6, 2002
A really fun crach leading into a really sweet slot!! The slot has millions of natural achor spots.

four stars

It should be rated 5.3, but it's not?!?!?! Jan 22, 2003
I agree with the 5.1 rating. Watch out for the guano at the top. Jan 23, 2003
2 out 3 stars , maybe..., but 3 stars is rather optimistic. Jan 25, 2003
Tom Black
Long Beach, Ca
Tom Black   Long Beach, Ca
A great spot to toprope beginners. Lots of exposure, and an awesome view from the eye...perfect for sunset photos! Mar 4, 2003
This was my first trad lead...not a lot of gear, but solid handholds, and great views. Highly recommended! May 4, 2003
Rock Sucker
Rock Sucker  
This route should be rated 5.3 or 5.4, not 5.1 (in Vogel's book). I think this is a classic climb. The exposure is great for the grade and the belay is at the edge of a natural rock tunnel with a spectacular view. I enjoy this route every time I climb it.

I like to finish off my day cooling down on this climb and watch the sunset from the summit (don't everyone rush to this climb at sunset... :-) It has super cool natural features making the actual climb very fun with options. The route does have a certain amount of exposure (for J-Tree). This was my second trad lead ever, so it has a bit of sentimentality to it for me. I thought it was an excellent beginner climb with various options for pro. I'd give it a 5.3 or 5.4 rating though. As far as my lucky stars, I'd dub it *** if climbed at sunset and ** if climbed any other time. Feb 19, 2004
Ryan Avery
Ryan Avery  
This thing is better as a solo than a lead. There are ok gear placements higher up but a fall wouldn't be pretty from any part due to all the ledges. Good thing the climbing is really easy. Feb 28, 2005
Bo Johnston
Bo Johnston  
My buddy and I free soloed this and were a little surprised at the committing level with how steep it was. The holds are crazy big though and the route killer! Feb 22, 2006
I think 5.3 is a fair rating. Sep 15, 2006
Bill Rusk
Duluth, MN
Bill Rusk   Duluth, MN
This route was my first trad lead. I have lead a couple since then and I have to say that I was able to place plenty of gear on the Eye. Long runners are nice. There is definant risk of decking onto a ledge but a climber who is starting to lead trad should be able to pull those easy moves no problem. Fun route. Jan 29, 2008
Jay Strine
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Jay Strine   Rancho Cucamonga, CA
I agree with most this is more than a 5.1. I feel it is more of a 5.4. Took a while to set up top ropes, but it is do-albe. Apr 14, 2008
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
I managed to set up a toprope for some friends with a single 60m rope and an anchor built on top, extended out over the edge. The ends came to about 4' up the "slab" at the bottom.

Would be quite easy with a 70m rope. Oct 20, 2009
Kevin Craig
Kevin Craig  
If you don't want to scramble down the back side and have a 70m rope, you can use the rap anchors on the SW face shown in the new Miramontes (sp?) guidebook (he says the rap is 100' but it's longer). Go through the tunnel, turn right then go west through a gully until you see the chains. A 60m will leave you about 15-20' short but on down-climbable terrain if you carefully (sic) rap off the ends of your rope(be careful to hang onto one end or you'll have a nasty solo to retrieve it for pulling). A great (but serious for the grade) route! Apr 12, 2011
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
Pretty airy for 5.3 but the holds are all there. Extend your slings to avoid the dreaded rope drag. Aug 20, 2011
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
Great solo with holds in all the right places. Jan 23, 2012
el cajon, CA
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
I give it a solid 5.4 with 3stars only if you free solo it with headlights!!! A ton of fun for the midnight solo sessions! Sep 13, 2012
Alex Doria
San Diego
Alex Doria   San Diego
Great solo. Gets your heart rate up but full of monster holds. Aug 25, 2013
Emmanuel B
Emmanuel B  
I climbed this last week. When I got to (what I think is) the crux, a hold broke and I took a 20-25 ft fall and my piece held. The interesting part about this is that right before we started, 2 guys free soloed it and just as I was cleaning up the anchor, another guy soloed it. What a timing... Jan 2, 2014
Phil Esra  
Where else are you going to find a climb this rad that goes at less than 5.7? Mega-classic for super-easy category. Feb 9, 2014
Ben Crowell
  5.1 R
Ben Crowell  
  5.1 R
Vogel calls this a 5.1, Gaines 5.5R. I'd call it a 5.1R. Climbed it on TR. I have no desire to lead this, due to the skimpy possibilities for protection. If I was with someone who had never climbed before, I would stick them on this climb, on a top-rope. There are excellent opportunities for setting up a belay from above, using either natural or gear anchors. A gear anchor is probably better, since the natural anchor possibilities make for an awkward belay on the floor of the cave. Access from the back is super easy. Throwing down a rope from the top isn't going to work due to the ledges, so it's necessary to lower someone off or have someone rap off on a single strand. May 25, 2014
Matt Nottingham  
I thought this climb was reasonably well protected. I would give it a PG rating. There are options for pro, I think the key is to avoid tunnel vision and look around you a lot. I thought there was good pro pretty much where it was needed. I scouted this climb the day prior to my ascent. I saw someone belaying up two seconding climbers. I suspect he was a guide, or just tons of experience, because it looked as though he put in only about 4 pieces. I sewed it up with 7-8 pieces. Couple of medium nuts, small and medium TCU's, and a couple of medium to large Camalots. Steepest and most exciting 5.4 I've ever been on, hands down. Plus a cool cave and an easy hike off. Apr 28, 2015
polloloco   Boston
Fun climb with some exciting sections. The crux is starting to get a little greasy, likely due to lack of rain.

That said, I wouldn't recommend this as a first lead for most since gear gets pretty thin right at the crux. I ended up doing nuts in opposition for that section when I couldn't find anything else. Jul 12, 2015
The Eye is so classic . Must have done it at least 6 times . Still consider it a climb to be assessed by its uniqueness and not its grade and the like. BTW a suggested rating of "5.1R " is jumping the shark a bit.Seriously.
A JT must do and a great lead for the beginning leader but not as a first lead --due to its usual greasiness ,high angle, and slightly awkward moves. But what a view west from the eye, and east! Jul 27, 2015
Bob Klaas
Long Beach, CA
Bob Klaas   Long Beach, CA
Climbed this route via bottom managed top-rope. We scrambled up the back and used the Joshua Tree System to extend a top-rope. Really mellow climb. Lots of features. It was great for our groups experience level. The cracks in the ceiling take cams extremely well. We use a single 70m rope.

Update: @Morley - The J-Tree System usually involves a 50-60ft static rope, a couple super 8's, and a clove hitch to form a vector. Usually a couple pieces of pro in a crack and/or slinging a boulder. In reference to the eye, I used 60ft static rope and 3 cams. I believe a 2,3,4 if I recall correctly. Oct 31, 2016
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Bob, can you enlighten us about the "Joshua Tree Method"? Nov 2, 2016
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
5.4 sounds about right to me. If you're a new-ish climber with mostly indoor experience, it will probably feel harder than that. I'll go with the PG-13 rating, since the pro is sparse and there are definitely sections where falling isn't an option. Jan 16, 2017
29 palms, ca
kili   29 palms, ca
I have led this three times and I soloed it for the first time yesterday. Soloing it seemed so much easier than leading it. Not stopping to place gear, not dragging a rope up, made it a focused and serene experience. I did the entire climb in about 5 minutes.

If the holds seem small, you are in the wrong place and all you have to do is move a little to find the jugs. Jul 24, 2017
Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
a #3 and #4 cam are good for an anchor Jan 15, 2018

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