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Routes in Cyclops Rock
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Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Circe Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Red Riding Hood TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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New Year's Day T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oversight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Spaghetti & Chili T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Stairway to Heaven TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Telegram for Mongo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01504, -116.15979 |
| FA: | Dick Webster and Harold Webster, 1957 |
| Page Views: | 83,212 total · 288/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Jul 7, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A great beginner route with excellent exposure. Rated 5.1 in old guidebooks, this route seems to warrant a slightly stiffer rating. While the climbing is easy, the protection is difficult to find and place, making it not the best beginner lead.
Begin in alcove in the center of the face below the Eye. Go up the low-angled crack/gully until it steepens. Move a bit right onto a steep face. Go up on generally good holds to reach the Eye. Belay from gear.
Descent: Scramble east down the back side of the formation and back around (north) to your pack.
Photos
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