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Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Don Wilson and Todd Gordon, February 1992
Page Views: 1,497 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Boulder up the start until possible to clip the first bolt then work your way left to clip a second bolt. Good footwork will make the somewhat crimpy moves to the third bolt easier. Climb past a final bolt and finish up with easier moves via a short hand crack onto a ledge with anchors.

A short route that is decent enough worth doing if in the area. Originally there was another fixed pin before the first bolt - it may be possible to get a small (0.5")piece in if necessary. Additionally one can get a 2.5" piece in the crack section at the top if needed.

The hard moves and the bulk of the climbing are well protected and it has an anchor- so I'd call it a sport route. Two stars out of five.

Location

On the southwest face of Cyclops Rock about 40' right of the start for The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics. The climb is easily identified as starting out of a recessed area of rock that overhangs slightly.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Gabe Huie
5.11a
Gabe Huie  
5.11a
I'd give this a 11a rating mainly for the first bolt was a committing clip. If you stick clip the first bolt and continue on then I can see it being 10d or softer since your taking away the first major pump of the route. Feb 17, 2015
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10d
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10d
From the bolted belay, continue up the route New Year's Day, 5.10c bolted, to gain the summit. May 16, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The name comes from a song on Ned's Atomic Dustbin 1991 release God Fodder. Nov 24, 2004
Josh Beck
5.10d
Josh Beck  
5.10d
That's about what it felt like to me... I don't frequently onsight 5.11 and this one came relatively easily. Then several weeks later, feeling stronger, I had a very poor showing on Jane's Addiction :) Jan 8, 2003
5/16 bolts have been replaced with 5 piece 3/8's rawls and the piton is gone with a bolt in place there are also three bolts on the anchor now its safe for the bolt clipping sport climbing gym rats. Oct 1, 2002

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