Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Foote, Woody Stark, Dick Webster 1966
Page Views: 1,781 total · 11/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 28, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The route is the obvious crack on the extreme right of the northwest face of Cyclops. Setting protection is a bit problematic, and tis a bit runout in one spot. This route acquired its name due to a leader fall on the FA. FA 1966.


Standard rack


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8 PG13
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8 PG13
Gain access to the base by climbing the chimney to the right of the eye route. Route starts in a dark corner with a shallow crack off of a large flat shelf.

Protect crack low with medium stopper and then a small Metolius cam in a horizontal about 8 feet up from the deck. Bomber handcrack for 1" cam which can be difficult to place as that's where your hand is. Climbing eases as you follow the crack up and left. Bringing long slings allows you to sling a horn or two. Follow up to a chimney where you'll see tons of trash at the bottom and follow up to top left. Two crack systems (one on left where you are and one vertical on right) allow for many choices to set anchors. Left crack takes 2-3" right vertical takes .5 to 1.5".

As for the R rating of this route - new .8 leaders take extra caution as you start but the landing is flat. The shallow crack does take pro - use it.

Walk off to back side of formation towards the Manx boulders.

~Susan Feb 18, 2007
Matt Hagny
  5.8 PG13
Matt Hagny  
  5.8 PG13
I'm not sure why anyone would want to climb this -- or why the heck it gets 2 stars on here. There's a couple of cool moves down low, which are (sort of ) protected by marginal gear (take offset cams!), then it blahs out to easier and easier climbing until upper half is only 5.3. And did I mention the crumbly rock along the way? And all the trash in the crack at the top. Apr 25, 2019
Matt Hagny
  5.8 PG13
Matt Hagny  
  5.8 PG13
Can rap from anchors atop Fractured Fissure, just a bit to the left of the topout. Apr 25, 2019