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Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Foote, Woody Stark, Dick Webster 1966
Page Views: 1,619 total · 11/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 28, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The route is the obvious crack on the extreme right of the northwest face of Cyclops. Setting protection is a bit problematic, and tis a bit runout in one spot. This route acquired its name due to a leader fall on the FA. FA 1966.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8 PG13
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8 PG13
Gain access to the base by climbing the chimney to the right of the eye route. Route starts in a dark corner with a shallow crack off of a large flat shelf.

Protect crack low with medium stopper and then a small Metolius cam in a horizontal about 8 feet up from the deck. Bomber handcrack for 1" cam which can be difficult to place as that's where your hand is. Climbing eases as you follow the crack up and left. Bringing long slings allows you to sling a horn or two. Follow up to a chimney where you'll see tons of trash at the bottom and follow up to top left. Two crack systems (one on left where you are and one vertical on right) allow for many choices to set anchors. Left crack takes 2-3" right vertical takes .5 to 1.5".

As for the R rating of this route - new .8 leaders take extra caution as you start but the landing is flat. The shallow crack does take pro - use it.

Walk off to back side of formation towards the Manx boulders.

~Susan Feb 18, 2007

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