Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines
Page Views: 849 total · 5/month
Shared By: Craig Clarence on Mar 12, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located between Are We Ourselves and Grey Cell Green. Start by climbing 10' or so to a bolt at the bottom of a large scoop, then head straight up over a bulging left-facing flake - small cam behind the flake if you trust it. After manteling on top of the flake, clip the pin buried in a seam above (easy to miss). Then diagonal up and right to the anchors atop Grey Cell Green. Start the second pitch by moving up and left to the first bolt on a vague arete, then follow bolts and pins straight up to the top of the formation.

The last bolt has a bail link on it - don't quit now! The moves above the bolt are steep, but a few better-than-expected edges will get you to the final short exit crack.

Fun route that will get better as it cleans up. Two stars out of five.

Protection

Not quite a sport route - with only one bolt and one pin on the first pitch, some will want a small cam as well. The second pitch is well protected with pins and bolts, although a hand-sized cam can be used to protect the final short exit crack.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
This climb is better than it looks and easily done as one pitch, but the first bolt is a serious eyesore IMO. The upper section is the best with holds appearing when you need them despite appearances from below. Two stars out of five. Sep 6, 2004
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b/c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b/c
Fun route. Sunny exposure, though exposed to the winds. We did it in two pitches, but one pitch could work fine. P1 requires gear(bring one set of cams to #3 camalot). P2 has bolts and pins and is safely protected. You'll want a hand-size cam for the final crack to the top. Anchor takes TCU sized cams.

Felt 10c-ish to me, but the grainy feet up high (still cleaning up a bit) might have made it seem harder. Balancy and fun climbing through the upper cruxes. Nov 25, 2008
Murf  
I've done this route starting on the crack up and right from Grey Cell Green. I think you have a stretch of badish rock this way, and it is done in one pitch. Fun up high and sunny. Dec 28, 2008
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c
I did it in one pitch. The first half kinda sucked. A bit spooky getting to and then past the first pin considering the rock quality and questionable pro. The first bolt does protect a hard move but after that it's pointless. The second half was very good and well protected. It would feel better if that second bolt were 3/8ths.

Next time I would link Gray Cell to New Years. Dec 20, 2009
Matt Hagny
  5.10b R
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b R
I did this as a single pitch, and greatly regretted it. Despite best efforts to minimize rope drag, including a double-length runner on the anchors for Grey Cell Green, and even doing some back-cleaning, the rope drag was severe. Would've been much more pleasant as 2 pitches.

There's definitely a 'no-fall zone' after the first bolt becomes a distant memory, and before you get gear. Then another scary section where you climb 35' above the anchors on GCG on crumbly rock and minimal to no pro (the flakes were too fragile to put cams behind).

If you do this as a single pitch, put a runner on *everything* including the bolts / pitons towards the top, and a triple-length runner on the mid-point (GCG) anchors.

Despite all this, I kinda liked the route! Oct 17, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10b R
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b R
The lowest bolt has a camouflage hanger now so it's barely visible even when looking for it. Oct 17, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10b R
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b R
I think the rating is height-dependent. I didn't think it was all that bad on the upper bulges, but was able to reach some key holds that my shorter partner couldn't. Passing the first bolt seemed like the crux to me. The upper section was intimidating, but if you looked around, there usually was a non-desperate way to do the move. Oct 17, 2018