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Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Frank Avela and Jack Knox, May 1986
Page Views: 4,655 total, 25/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 2, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route ascends the middle of the SW face of Cyclops Rock -- to the right and around the corner if you're facing the Eye from the road.

Start on a right-facing ramp that is separate from the main face and ascends from the ground -- your belayer can find a nice comfortable seat between the base of the ramp and the main wall (which is extremely undercut at this point). From the top of the ramp, a few fun moves get you around and over a large rounded flake that opens to the left. Finally, move slightly to the left and ascend juggy plates to a two-bolt anchor.

Single rope rappel or walk-off to the east.

Protection

Thin rack to around 2". Two-bolt anchor; can be backed up with a #2 camalot.
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
climbed this again today after hearing about the lead fall fatality on 3/25/2017. have led this many times over the yrs. dozen times or more by now

protectability pretty much as i remember. solid placements avail within every 10-15 ft through the somewhat chossy but easy middle stretch. pretty key to opt for bomber placements and not settle for marginal ones

rack of one Blue Alien, double Green to double Red, plus single BD 0.75 Green and #1 Red, plus couple of extra finger sizes (or opt for stoppers). the bomber pro's throughout are mostly small sizes. i sometimes finish without placing the 0.75 and/or the #1. the finishing slanting crack flares at spots, but bomber placements do exist. one could even sew that up, that is if one isn't left with only one suitably sized pro by then or none

FYI, Spaghetti & Chili is a single pitch climb. there is no "first set of fixed chains" partway up on S&C. after leading to top of initial steep flake, the visible bolted anchor about 20 ft to the left is for the adjacent bolted route Gray Cell Green. if leading S&C, DO NOT traverse over to clip that anchor as pro. it would create heinous rope drag that would make the higher climbing more difficult than needs be Apr 7, 2017
Soulless Ginger
San bernardino
Soulless Ginger   San bernardino
pretty simple once you get past the flake. like adam said, throw a .4 on the undercling of the flake. Dec 3, 2015
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
anchor bolts have hangers only, as in no rap rings or chains. can clip and set up TR, but last person has to walk off Jan 14, 2014
Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
  5.8+
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
  5.8+
Super fun climb and can be very well protected. But since when did a 5.7 have a 5.9 crux? Getting out from under the flake and establishing the lieback stance is very tenuous. The last time I did a vertical 5.7 lieback, I had this little thing called foot holds. Whatever, J-tree ratings don't seem to mean anything anyway. Dec 2, 2013
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
  5.7+
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
  5.7+
Super fun climb! Crux is getting off the ground and up on the flake with the lieback move and then the top traverse. The traverse is ever so slightly over hanging....From the flake to the traverse I didn't put any pro because super easy climbing...Probally not necessary but before I got up on the traverese I put a #4 BD Cam. May 1, 2012
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7
May 06, no bird problems. The steep lieback at the beginning is the crux, protected by a .4 camalot. The top exit crack is as Chris said, very fun. One or two bomber .75 camalots protect this move. Inbetween these, protection was somewhat sparse, despite what appearences might suggest. However, the climbing was super easy in that area. The addition of a bolt just after the grey patina area, where the holds are still big but dubious and a bit runout, would probably not be taken for granted by the beginner/novice leader. Rap off with a 60m rope or walk down the back side. May 16, 2006
We attempted this route on Sun 3rd April 2005, and was attacked by a large crow while on the final finger crack finish. Had to be lowered and then rappel down for our gear.

The bird has a nest in the cave to the right of the last crack, and presumably has some young it is protecting. Apr 6, 2005
True, it's a fun finish. I climbed the route again recently at the end of a long day and was a little surprised -- I didn't remember the last few moves being quite so strenuous. Feb 20, 2004
Rock Sucker
  5.7
Rock Sucker  
  5.7
This is a fun climb. It can be top-roped if desired. Perhaps climb "The Eye" and rappel down "Spaghetti and Chili" and then top-rope it a few times for some quick climbing fun... Feb 19, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
The lieback flake at the start is cleanly cleaved but the highlight is the steep handcrack finish shared with Penelope's Walk. Jan 10, 2004