Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Wolfe, Dick Webster & Woody Stark, April 1969
Page Views: 1,540 total, 13/month
Shared By: Bill Rusk on Feb 17, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Go up a left diagonal crack when that crack dwindles choose the path of least resistance and continue up left until you get to a cave. Move up at to the left of the cave to where it joins Are We Ourselves. Pull the final (crux) move to the top.

Watch out for loose rock. Some of the slab is pretty loose.

Reference: Vogel, Randy. (2006). Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West. Falcon Publishing. A great resource.

Location

About 30 feet right of Spaghetti & Chili on the southwest face of Cyclops Rock.

Protection

To 2.5 inches; two bolt anchor/rap on top. I suggest walking off to northeast.

Photos

Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
  5.6
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
  5.6
As of 10/23/2016, bolted hangars on top of Penelope's Walk and Spaghetti & Chili have no rap rings nor chains. Will require walk off after top out unless you leave gear on bolts. Oct 24, 2016
Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
  5.6 R
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
  5.6 R
Terrible climb with sections of deteriorating granite. The route is very difficult to protect as the features on scarce, small, and flaring. I placed a tipped out nut in the "crack" just before the traverse out left as it's the only thing that I could place there. A fall on the 5.6/5.7 slab traverse would have pulled the piece and resulted in a nasty fall.

I gave the route an "R" rating because, while you can place gear, little of it is any good. I would be surprised if my gear held a fall.

I've now climbed two 5.5s in J-Tree. I find the grade to be terribly sand bagged as well as ripe for dangerous fall potential. Be warned. Dec 2, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.7+
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.7+
Well, definitely not 5.5. But exactly what to rate it I'm not sure. My wife followed this route, and she is solid on 5.8 most of the time. She fell once on the route, and was pretty scared pulling through the last few jams over the overhanging top out. I think I would give it a 5.8, but to be "consistent" with the rest of j-tree, 5.7+. I don't think the authors of the guide books I use climbed it, but who would blame them? Mar 25, 2012
Drederek
  5.5
Drederek  
  5.5
First pitch I ever led at JT, it was a great intro to all the quirkiness of climbing here. Mar 2, 2010
Natalie Makardish
Petaluma, Ca
Natalie Makardish   Petaluma, Ca
my first Lead :) Jan 4, 2010
Pete Johnston
Irvine, California
 
Pete Johnston   Irvine, California
 
I consider this a very good route. I usually do it in two pitches to show the beginer a nice airy semi-hanging belay. Has a classic 5.5 hand jam finish through a steep section. Really a fun route, for the experienced leader. Note: vogel book topo/picture is completely wrong, however the write up is correct. Jan 3, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.5
C Miller   CA  
  5.5
Not as a bad as the description suggests and the top bit of hand crack is actually quite fun. Dec 2, 2009
Why is it a bomb? And doesn't it finish on Spaghetti and Chili? 5.7? Mar 12, 2008
Gary Schenk  
 
Nasty climb, and the crux at the top sure ain't 5.4! Mar 12, 2008