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Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Charles Cole and Steve Anderson, 1984
Page Views: 4,261 total, 27/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Start from the desert floor in a scoop and face climb up past some horizontals (pro) to the first bolt about 40' up. Interesting friction past two more bolts leads up and right to the left margin of a small cave/recess where you will find another bolt. Steep friction moves (crux) lead to the security of a good hold after which the climbing eases and some gear can be placed. One final bolt protects the moves to the top where a bolted anchor will be found. Either rappel off (60 meter rope needed), if slings are in place, or do the walk-off down the backside which is quick and easy.

Those who like spicy steep friction will enjoy this route out as it offers engaging climbing with a minimal approach. A little sporty but safe, this route is perhaps best done on a cool day or when shady for maximum security.

About the name - the 1984 summer Olympics were held in Los Angeles and at that time everything it seemed was marketed with the Official Olympic tie-in, so it seemed only natural to have an Official Route!

Location

Right of The Eye (a prominent window above a deep recessed area in the rock) lies a large ledge located about 40' off the ground. The smooth and unbroken face right of the ledge is where you'll find this route.

Protection

5 bolts (3/8"), light rack to 2", bolted anchor
Tyler Lomprey
Las Vegas, NV
 
Tyler Lomprey   Las Vegas, NV
 
A gem of a route that i'm very grateful had good confidence inspiring bolts on it! This bad boy is protected just where it needs to be, classic jtree style! May 8, 2016
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
Seconded this route in the mid 80s. I typically like to lead but I wasn't complaining about following by the time I reached the summit. I thought the upper section was similar to P-2 of 'Welcome to Joshua Tree' in the Comic Book Area. Lines like this add a lot of flavor to the JT climbing experience. May 2, 2012
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
This route has always had a reputation for being something of a sandbag. In fact, a number of Charles Cole's .10c face routes put up around the same time have similar reputations: Surface Tension (.10dR--bad fall at the start), Sexy Sadie (.11a) and Band Saw (on the Old Woman) come to mind. Jan 22, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10d PG13
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10d PG13
For some reason I avoided this climb for many years, but finally did it last week.

Good climbing, though the rock is a little crumbly from not much travel. The slab is reasonably well protected by Josh standards, though you'll pause for a moment of contemplation getting into the cave.

The fixed pin in the cave is now a great big bolt (thanks Chris!)

The move that gave me the most fright was the exit move from the cave. With my height 5'9 - I found the move tricky and fairly spicey considering a fall from "the move" would be about 15 feet back and to the side onto a slab.

We climbed Swept Away (11a) the same day and found the 84 Olympics considerably harder and more serious. ymmv. Apr 8, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The 4 bolts on this route were replaced by myself about 1996 or so. No bolts were added, but the pin in the "cave" was replaced with a bolt a little left of where it was.

This route will probably never be overly popular with it's steep smearing and somewhat sporty nature. The route just to the left (Dino Damage) is another fun line with harder moves but a less sustained nature. Dec 11, 2004
Bo Johnston  
 
Just climbed this last week as the sun was setting (one of the last to get sun at 4:30PM in December. The route hasn't seen much use considering how close to the road it is and because of this there is some loose sections. The bolts are all bomb proof and NEW; did someone add a couple because in the book it only shows 3?? I'm glad they were there and the 10c crux is just after the 4th bolt. I brought a very light rack for a few horizontals and the two bolts at the top are simply hangers (no rings). Well worth climbing! Dec 10, 2004