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Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: John Wolfe & Rob Stahl, 11/70, FFA: (TR) Rick Cashner and Don Reid., 1979, FL: Dave Mayville et al, 8/90
Page Views: 2,608 total, 20/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the Northeast Face, climb up face and cracks past the left side of a big brown scoop. At the right side of another brown scoop, a crack leans up and right. Follow this past a diagonal slash. Move right past a bolt to another right leaning crack and up.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2.5". 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11b
Tradiban  
  5.11b
Really fun! The choss is over quick and leads into great moves. Protects well. Nov 9, 2013
A bit grainy to be considered a true classic, but an excellent line nonetheless. Crux is definitely passing the last bolt. Dec 19, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b
+1 for an awesome thought provoking climb! Another classic j-tree .11. Feels true to the grade and protects well. Bolts are a little "loose" but in decent condition. The upper portion past the last bolt has some very interesting sequential moves that will keep you coming back to this climb. I protected the move off of the ledge with a blue tcu just above the exit on the left. Perfect fit. Mar 26, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This thing is super good! Big pulls on positive holds, way rad. Very close to the perfect climb. Durr is right, considering how close this is to the campground it's surprising how little traffic it sees. Jan 6, 2012
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
How is it that there is not a line all the time to climb this thing?

Stellar sustained climbing with good pro, 4 bolts, set of TCU's, a #1 & #2 camelot to a bolted anchor. The crux is from the third bolt up to the belay and I think its 5.11a to get to the cave. May 20, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
up high, imho, but the whole route is pretty interesting. i just hope that choss at the bottom stays there, otherwise, the route could get harder off the ground. Nov 4, 2009
Where is the crux on this one? Mar 17, 2009