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Routes in Cyclops Rock

Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cyclops Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dino Damage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Day T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spaghetti & Chili T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: John Long, Brian Pohorff, October 1971, FFA: (TR) John Long, 1981, FL: Todd Gordon & Don Reid, May 1998
Page Views: 415 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kyle Wills on Oct 12, 2015
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep double crack system with juggy finish.

Location

Northwest face The start is at the top of a gully, one gully over from The Eye. Anchors provide a quick exit for The Eye as well.

Protection

Standard rack, 2 bolts with long chains are available to rap off or take the easy walk off.

Photos

C Miller   CA  
Originally done using aid, the climb was subsequently freed on top-rope and then later lead free. Oct 13, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Top-roping notes:

1) It's overhanging, so a fall results in a significant swing and difficulties getting back on route.

2) Although the swing is super fun, I would periodically inspect the rope and/or anchor extension because it ends up rubbing against the rock face at the top - could break if left unhecked for too many swings.

3) Rope friction against the rock face at the top makes it hard for the belayer to pull the rope. I extended the anchor about 5 feet and it still wasn't enough. I would extend it 10 feet next time, but make sure the extension is redundant and/or very sturdy because it will rub against the rock face during falls. Feb 21, 2016

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