Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: John Long, Brian Pohorff, October 1971, FFA: (TR) John Long, 1981, FL: Todd Gordon & Don Reid, May 1998
Page Views: 480 total · 12/month
Shared By: Kyle Wills on Oct 12, 2015
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Steep double crack system with juggy finish.

Location

Northwest face The start is at the top of a gully, one gully over from The Eye. Anchors provide a quick exit for The Eye as well.

Protection

Standard rack, 2 bolts with long chains are available to rap off or take the easy walk off.

Photos

C Miller   CA  
Originally done using aid, the climb was subsequently freed on top-rope and then later lead free. Oct 13, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Top-roping notes:

1) It's overhanging, so a fall results in a significant swing and difficulties getting back on route.

2) Although the swing is super fun, I would periodically inspect the rope and/or anchor extension because it ends up rubbing against the rock face at the top - could break if left unhecked for too many swings.

3) Rope friction against the rock face at the top makes it hard for the belayer to pull the rope. I extended the anchor about 5 feet and it still wasn't enough. I would extend it 10 feet next time, but make sure the extension is redundant and/or very sturdy because it will rub against the rock face during falls. Feb 21, 2016