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Routes in Cyclops Rock
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Are We Ourselves T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Aye, Aye T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Business Trip T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Carolyn's Rump T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Circe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Circe Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dino Damage T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eye, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Foul Fowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fractured Fissure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goldilocks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gray Cell Green S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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I, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Leader's Fright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Red Riding Hood TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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New Year's Day T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Odysseus' Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Overnight Sensation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oversight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Penelope's Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slim Jim TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Spaghetti & Chili T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Stairway to Heaven TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Surface Tension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Telegram for Mongo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Thin Red Line T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Ulysses' Bivouac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01496, -116.15944 |
| FA: | Sean Tang, Hannah Ashley, 9/2017 |
| Page Views: | 1,148 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sean on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start on the far right end of the west face and ascend the most prominent diagonal ramp up and leftward to the anchor bolts atop Spaghetti & Chili. About halfway where this main diagonal starts to dwindle, instead of veering lower toward the "cave" along Penelope's Walk, continue onward across that dwindling diagonal past its narrowest for exposed shuffling excitement, before it broadens again for the last few walking steps to the anchor bolts. Another route called Goldilocks (rated 5.7 in the books) crosses path near midway to go up and over two small roofs onto a lower sloping topout, if one needs an earlier easier bailout exit.
Mythology
Odysseus was husband of Penelope and king of Ithaca. He tried to dodge the Trojan War but got busted, and went leaving wife and son at home. Odysseus came up with the Trojan Horse ploy that sacked Troy. Afterward, along their way home, Odysseus and crew encountered Cyclops and blinded his one eye. Cyclops told his pop Poseidon, who punished Odysseus by fouling up his voyage itinerary with long layovers and lousy navigation, adding 20 years to his return trip. Time passed and peeps in Ithaca figured Odysseus dead. Penelope held out hope tho, remained faithful, and fended off suitors. Meanwhile, Odysseus got to bang Circe of Aeaea in order to save his crew, and later had to bang Calypso of Ogygia for 7 years before able to continue home. Odysseus finally got back to Ithaca, but in disguise to first gauge Penelope's faithfulness. During a contest for Penelope, Odysseus finally revealed his identity after shooting an arrow through a bunch of axe heads. He then killed all the suitors who had tried to get with Penelope. Odysseus and fam lived happily again.
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